Is there a “best” version of the 358156?

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jtcarm posted this 23 April 2023

I’ve decided I need a 358156 to go with my inventory of .38/.357 moulds.

I seem to recall reading that on the original design, the two front driving bands were slightly undersized so the bullet could extend farther up into the ball seat, but not all moulds were made this way, some have full-diameter front bands.

So is one design better than the other, and is there a way to tell them apart (like a marking to tell in which era the mould was made)?

I’m not sure I understand what the advantage would be, unless you’re going to seat to the lower groove in a .38 special case to use in a .38 revolver, so that the front band would be up in the ball seat.

358156

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Duane Mellenbruch posted this 23 April 2023

I never really considered a revolver cylinder as having a ball seat. It is normally a good idea to seat the bullet out to fit nicely into the reduction in the cylinder so it is fully supported at the time it is fired. Beyond that, just seating longer might extend beyond the end of the cylinder and that would not be good. I have always felt that the wide top band would insure that the bullet is fully centered and supported when fired.

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leadhead2 posted this 24 April 2023

I never heard that, but I have the Lyman double cavity, and it throws a great bullet.

They shoot great in my .38's and .357's.

leadhead

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Qc Pistolero posted this 24 April 2023

if you want to add a 358156 in your inventory I'd say that's a smart move.I've made my good part of mistakes in my life but buying a 358156 certainly tends to offset the balance towards center.Great bullet...you won't regret investing into that mold.

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RicinYakima posted this 24 April 2023

If you size the bullet to fit the cylinder, all of the '156's I have cast will work just great. With the 38 Special brass seated in the bottom crimp groove, you have two bands in the throat.

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lotech posted this 24 April 2023

I didn't know there was more than one version of this design. I'm pretty sure mine is from the '60s. A good accurate bullet design no doubt, but I wouldn't assume it was the most accurate without comparing it to other designs and shooting some groups. I'd never part with my #358156, but I've found the H&G #51 will generally shoot as well, maybe even a little better and you needn't mess with a gas check.

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jtcarm posted this 25 April 2023

Thanks all.

I’ve decided to go with Accurate’s rendition.

Tom never fails to deliver.

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Pigslayer posted this 4 weeks ago

I have the 358156. All the driving bands are the same. Mine is single cavity GC and about 50 years old. What a great little mold!!. Bullet is incredibly accurate!

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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358156hp posted this 4 weeks ago

358156 seems to be one of the least changed designs in Lyman history, along with it's big brother 429244. Nothing like the constant shenanigans with the Keith designs. Maybe Ray Thompson has something on the Lyman family. The design has remained really consistent since its inception.

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Pigslayer posted this 4 weeks ago

My favorite two molds for my .38 Special.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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RicinYakima posted this 4 weeks ago

Maybe Ray Thompson has something on the Lyman family.

He worked for the company.

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RicinYakima posted this 4 weeks ago

358156 seems to be one of the least changed designs in Lyman history, along with it's big brother 429244. Nothing like the constant shenanigans with the Keith designs. Maybe Ray Thompson has something on the Lyman family. The design has remained really consistent since its inception.

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res45 posted this 4 weeks ago

he Lyman #358156 is one of if not my favorite bullets for 38/357 loads. I have two Lyman two cavity FN molds and a NOE HP clone, and they all produce excellent bullets. I picked the Lyman versions up off eBay, one was for $50 shipped and $65 for a two cavity with handles shipped, but both molds had seen little to no use and were in like new condition. I have tons of 38 Special brass and I make good use out of the double crimp groove and Skeeter Loads.

'Artisan' in Lead, Brass & Powder.

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Boschloper posted this 4 weeks ago

res45: I am interested in your PC bullets. Are you going to shoot them without a gas check? I shoot my 358156’s pc’d and without gas check, all loads from light .38’s to heavy .357’s with great accuracy, no leading, and easy cleaning.

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res45 posted this 4 weeks ago

My alloy is pretty soft for magnum loads, so I use a GC on those, I have thousands of GC for the caliber that I bought cheap many years ago so it's no real added cost as all my lead and the PC I use is free as well. I don't use GC's on 38 Special or +P loads, as they're not needed. The NOE clone HP pictured above was shot in a S&W snubby at +P velocity without a GC using Alox/JPW lube.

'Artisan' in Lead, Brass & Powder.

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358156hp posted this 4 weeks ago

Maybe Ray Thompson has something on the Lyman family.

He worked for the company.

That by itself explains a lot about my early 431244:

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res45 posted this 3 weeks ago

'Artisan' in Lead, Brass & Powder.

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Crooked Creek posted this 3 weeks ago

Another forum discussion HERE starts by saying the first two crimp bands are .355" compared to the rear bands at .360", at least for that guy's mold and alloy. I have a mold, but have never measured the bands.

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Is there a “best” version of the 358156?

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