The great no drill mount from Mike Watson.
I like slim long scopes on a 99.
Lyman Alaskan with Litscherts Varmint Master power adder in 7/8" Leupold rings.
Now to load up some cast !
It's a K Grade, American Walnut was all Savage used,
What a great looking rifle, Please post how it shoots.
Up to the range with a box of Winchester 1976 170 gr SilverTip nickle cased ammo.
5 shots @ 50 yards. Group was 1/2" high and 6" wide,
Time to try some lead !
Make sure the fore arm isn't contacting the receiver. I had a clip fed 99 years ago that shot weird. I
found the forearm was contacting the receiver real hard and "confusing" the barrel. Shaving a little of the offending wood off fixed the problem.
You have Beautiful gun.
Ending my 50 year love affair with 1895/1899/99 Savages.
Too many guns, too little time.
I've never felt much for Savage 99 but that one makes me reconsider.
Beautiful rifle.I'm jealous!
I knew a retired Alaskan gunsmith who saw my Savage 99 and said, "If everyone in Alaska owned a Savage 99, I'd have starved to death."
Farm boy from Illinois, living in the magical Pacific Northwest
Bud, as another Savage 99 owner, I really like the looks of yours. Mine is in .308, and I bought it just outside the gate of the Benning School For Boys summer of 1975. I told the shop owner I would be back the next day after talking to my wife as funds were really tight, and she agreed to the buy. I mounted a 3X6(?) Weaver, and shot it until about 4 years ago when the scope eyepiece came loose and would not hold so replaced it with a 3 or 4 x 12 Nikon I bought at a Cabelas sale up here. It still shoots 1 inch groups regularly at 100 yards, usually about an inch and a half.
I have had 2 problems with it over the years. 1st, it would not fire when the trigger was pulled but when you went to open the lever it would go off. Gunsmith figured out my resized cases were not resized quite enough so I turned the die down another 3/4 turn, and problem went away. The bore is really tight, and while my cases worked fine in the M1A, they were not resized enough for the Savage. Second, groups went away, and even with the new scope groups were horrendous. It seems the cross bolt just ahead of the stock was loose, almost loose enough to fall out. I was looking at the rifle, and noticed the hole in the receiver where there should have been the end of the bolt. Tightened up the bold again, and groups returned from their vacation.
Another non-gun problem was with the scope. Years ago I noticed my groups started to wander, and realized the scope was so close to the barrel that evidently the barrel was smacking the scope upon recoil. I got higher bases, problem cured, but probably not early enough. Eventually the eyepiece became loose, and even with the tightening ring up tight the eyepiece would move up and down when wiggled. Often have I wondered if going from warm to extreme cold in the minus 30s (and more at times) up here in Alaska may have attributed to the scope problem; expanding and contracting the metal may have been too much. Called Weaver, they said they had changed ownership 3 or 4 times since I bought the scope, couldn't fix it, but an independent scope smith could but there was at least an 18 month wait. Cabelas had Nikon scopes on sale, bought 2, put one on the Savage, have good space between the barrel and scope, and figure last change of scope. I really like the looks of the scope you have on yours.
My brother slipped and fell breaking the original stock, so I had it replaced. The new stock is definitely is not walnut, it looks like birch. I don't know what it is, but it is very light, straight grained, very plain, and the varnish or shellac or whatever was used completely covers the wood providing for no aesthetic value. But, as long as it continues to shoot well it is not going to be changed at this late date after being used for around 30 years.
My most accurate load has been 130 grain Speer Hollow Point over 44 or 45 grains W748, CCI 200 primer. I have hunted deer, and now hunt caribou, with a 165 grain Soft Pont. Haven't shot one lately as I have been on a quest to shoot a caribou with every rifle I have over .22. This year I am concentrating on the 25-06 with cast bullets, and one of my trapdoor 45-70's; I have hunted with both over the last few years, but never was near a caribou when I one of them in hand.
Anyway, thought I would drop a post on my Savage 99. A great 45 year old to me pawn shop gun. I wish mine looked as nice as yours.
It's a takedown. Different geometery
I wonder if there is some tiny amount of slack in the barrel lock, allowing the barrel to twist slightly under the torque load of the bullet passing through and in effect swinging the front of the scope mount from side to side, resulting in either horizontal sighting errors on the subsequent shot, or the barrel moving laterally as the shot breaks. Have you had a chance to try cast bullets?
Here is my 1932 Savage 99 lightweight takedown ,cal 250--3000 with a classic Paul Yeager detachable scope mount.
Has a modern Leopold 2-7. But I plan on changing out to an old USA Weaver scope that would be more period with the scope mount.
BTW, this rig shoots close to 1 minute with 117 gr Hornady RN bullets
But, I do plan to work up some cast bullet loads for it. I have an old Ideal mold, 257388, 80 gr spitzer GC
to work with for early slower twist 250.
I can't bring myself to scope my 1909 model.
You don't want to scope your 1909 Savage 99,
But it sure does not look like the buttstock is "Period Correct"
But I do like the Peep sight setup for the old M 1899s or M99s. My first M1899 was a rifle just like my current one- Deluxe, lightweight PG takedown, cal 30-30. That one, I did have a period tang sight on. Great rifle. accurate and only 5 3/4 pounds for great woods carry, Unfortunately sold it in a weak moment.
I just happened to pick up the 250 that had already been scoped, but at least with a '40s/50s Paul Yeager mount.
Neither of the stocks have the factory profile except the lower perch belly curve. I raised the comb so I could shoot with my head upright. Also I widened the forearm and scalloped it to meet the receiver, and shaped a schnabel on the front while making an "s" contour to better fit my hand and balance the profile. Had to make a brass forearm screw escutcheon and shape it to the steeper slope there. When I rebarreled it I ended up cutting it down to 20" and threading the muzzle for a suppressor. Williams solder-on high front sight ram and 3/8" blade gets my sights above the can. I didn't dovetail it for a rear barrel sight but did solder on a front barrel mounted safari sling mount. The brass butt plate is because I couldn't find a steel one for sale at the time, but with a brass thread protector turned to match the barrel contour, the brass escutcheon, and other brass highlights (like sling swivels and the factory cartridge counter), it doesn't look terribly out of place. I figure if I was going to overhaul the thing and saw downstanding dead trees forstock wood, I might as well make it to my own specifications.
I do like what you did to your M99. To suit you, fit you, high enough cheek piece for High iron sights use, over the can.
As said earlier, my first M1899 was a 1934 lightweight takedown 30-30, still D&T for tang sight which I added.
Loved that 5 3/4 pound gun for carry hunting.
This pictured second lightwt takddown deluxe 1899, cal 250-3000 is a 1932 with the later added "1940s-1950s modified classic in my eyes".scope mount which works nice for me nowadays with 80 year old eyes, though it is heavier than my previous LWTD 30-30.
Hope yours shoots as well as mine
Handloader February 2022 No.336 - Brian Pearce has a "Pet Loads article on the .300 Savage via and for Savage 99 rifles.