I normally clean with 3-4 paper patches and Hoppes #9, and a patch 12-24 hours later looking for4 copper.
Monday, 9/24/18, Striker pistol, Hornady 68 gr hpbt, 100 yards--5 groups averaged .650. This gun/load shoots the 1st shot into the group
Cleaning guilt made me nylon brush and patch hopes until clean patches, about a week.
10/2/18 shot to test a new rest, target below.
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Joe,
That mirrors my jacketed bullet experience also. I only clean down to bare steel before I grease the bore for long term storage. Well, and when I get a new to me rifle that has no history. Other than that I just paper towel patch and Ed's Red once at the end of the day and one dry patch before shooting again. But I don't have to worry about rust here in the desert, others may.
Ric
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I thought this was a cast bullet forum. Try test using cast.😉
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I shot a few cast bullets, and the result was similar. The surprising thing about Lyman Super Moly was that generally patch 3 or 4 was /is clean. Rimfire results are commonly the same. Pistol CB cleans quick also.
In all cases, brushing with Hoppes or ? gives black patches for a loooooooooong time.
I suggest that OUB12 adopt the tactic of not reading any posts that refer to jacketed bullets; lest he become infected.
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Joe, In my opinion, once you use the brush with Hoppe's the brush will carry the sludge forever. Until the brush is really clean, as in the sink with soap and water, you will get black patches. Not from the bore, but from the brush. FWIW, Ric
ou812, Yes, I know. However we have a large readership that is not always experienced with cast bullet bore cleaning techniques. Therefore, using comparison in which they have past experience with, allows them to learn more quickly. As in just like jacketed bullets or cast bullets, if you clean the bore to bare metal you will have to shoot awhile to get back to stable bore conditions. Ric
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Well, I only use nylon brushes now, and sometimes rinse them in min spirits-but not always. What is that black stuff that brushes loose?
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I like shooting moly coated jacketed. I can send you some different Sierra and Noslers to try if you like.😉
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Joe, One of the ingredients of #9 is a "surfactant" a chemical that lifts solids into solutions. But the solvents evaporate so fast in #9 the solids, mostly carbon and primer reside, stick to the brush. When you push the dirty brush down the bore, it leaves the solids back on the surface. At some time you just have to say "enough". Ric
ou812, when I was shooting moly jacketed bullets, a damp patch to push the lumps out, and I was done. But I only shoot maybe a 100 JB a year now. Ric
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FWIW, Homer Culver used to use spray Gumout to clean the gunk off his cleaning brushes every time he used them.
He never used Gumout in the barrel, but ALWAYS on brushes and jags.
Frank Marshall did the same with cast...hmmmm.
73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia
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when cleanining with a brush, I spray the brush with brake cleaner after brushing, then one wet patch of 50/50 kroil/Hoppes#9, then one dry patch just before the line is called.
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... and don't forget that merely rubbing a steel barrel with any " magic juice " on a cleaning patch will leave black on that patch ... inside or outside that barrel ... it's the steel ...
for cast, just look for shiny lead peces ... for mj, look for green .
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i have been using moly in some form for 35 years for cast ... for my plinking loads at 1200 fps almost none ... just greasy fingers when seating .... when done, just an eds-red etc. wipeout . btw moly gunk is great for sizing stubborn brass, large bases etc. not to scare anybody, but i leave my brass greasy when using plinking loads. so far, so good .
ken
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I've been using my stash of 4759 in my 1917 Winchester Mod class. When accuracy drops off I run a few patches wetted with Seafoam to cut the carbon fouling ahead of the chamber. Yeah, yeah, I know...but it works for me.
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..." and don't forget that merely rubbing a steel barrel with any " magic juice " on a cleaning patch will leave black on that patch ... inside or outside that barrel ... it's the steel ..."
Thanks for the reminder Ken.
I let out a long Charlie Brown type sigh every time I hear or read of someone saying that they clean until a patch comes out white. Or worse, tell a new shooter that should be the test for when the bore is clean -- I have never seen such a patch.
John
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..." and don't forget that merely rubbing a steel barrel with any " magic juice " on a cleaning patch will leave black on that patch ... inside or outside that barrel ... it's the steel ..."
Thanks for the reminder Ken.
I let out a long Charlie Brown type sigh every time I hear or read of someone saying that they clean until a patch comes out white. Or worse, tell a new shooter that should be the test for when the bore is clean -- I have never seen such a patch.
John
My #3 or #4 paper towel patch comes out clean, jb or cb lyman super moly. But, jb overnight H #9 OR nylon brush-looking for copper-and black patch. Also, synthetic motor oil overnight and black patch. Every nylon brushing is with dip in H #9, so the brush is sorta clean. BTW, jb = no copper Titegroup 5.5-8.5, 223 and 22-250. FAST = copper?
joe b.
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OK Joe I have a lot to learn. When you say jb I think of the slightly abrasive paste now marketed by Brownnell's not something to let soak overnight. Is there another kind of Jb.
I will try your method if I can understand it. I already bought the nylon brush but haven't gotten around to it yet.
John
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OK Joe I have a lot to learn. When you say jb I think of the slightly abrasive paste now marketed by Brownnell's not something to let soak overnight. Is there another kind of Jb.
I will try your method if I can understand it. I already bought the nylon brush but haven't gotten around to it yet.
John
John;
I don't have a method, other than to push 3 or 5 paper towel patches with Hoppes #9 through the bore after shooting.
With cast bullets lubed with Lyman Super Moly, the 3rd or 4th patch comes out clean.
With jb = jacketed bullets, the 3rd or 4th patch comes out clean. I leave the bore with #9 in it, generally over night, looking for copper-none found to date.
Either cast or jacketed, #9 in barrel for 6-24 hours, the patch shows black.
Either cast or jacketed, #9 and nylon brush produces black on the patch, Black continues almost an infinite number of cycles, but eventually I get a clean patch; and accuracy returns after a dozen shots or so.
I put the patches on the bench top to dry, overnight; I fear spontaneous combustion.
So, my method is paper towel patches with #9 until a clean patch, then a patch with synthetic motor oil. When the guilt overcomes experience, nylon brush.
This is with a lotta Savage barrels and a Shilen.
Cleaning guns remains a mystery.
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Thanks for the detailed description. I will buy another nylon brush (apparently lost the first one still in the plastic (to be found of course after I buy another) and a bottle of Hoppe's #9 -- I hope it still smells the same.
I agree that cleaning guns is a mystery. Everybody seems to have their own pet method but most of them seem to work.
John
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Hoppe's #9 still smells the same with amyl acetate ester, kind of like bananas, but no longer has benzene so doesn't work as well as the old stuff. I buy all the old stuff I can find that has the NYFD warning on the back label. 
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I shot yesterday, 223, 7.5 and 8 Titegroup, 68 gr horn bthp.
Patches, l to r, 1,2,3,4 then overnight with Hoppes #9 in barrel, this morning a sorta black patch.
Now synthetic motor oil on a patch.
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