Lyman top punches

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  • Last Post 04 June 2014
21gun posted this 03 August 2013

Hello,

As much as I love pan lubing my cast bullets it maybe time to move up to a Lyman 4500 lube and sizer. Here's the thing I use lee molds and I have no idea what top punches to get.

My molds 356-102-1R 358-125-RF 452-228-R C309-150-F

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highstandard40 posted this 04 August 2013

Try this list to see if it helps.

http://www.castpics.net/subsite/TopPunches/Lee.html

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21gun posted this 04 August 2013

Thank you

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R. Dupraz posted this 04 August 2013

Great reference from highstandard40. Will just add that if a punch doesn't match the nose of your bullet just right, add a pinch of JB Weld to the punch cavity and wax to the nose of the bullet for a perfect fit.

I like to do this especially with long nosed rifle bullets. Even though the subject punch is supposed to be made for the bullet, they are not a mirror fit to the nose. With a dab of JB, the nose is fully supported when the bullet is sized. Think this eliminates any possibility of distortion.

No long winded scientific data to prove one way or the other but it makes me feel good anyway.

RD

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Pigslayer posted this 04 August 2013

For your RF bullets Accurate offers a set of three flat top punches for $5.00 plus shipping. The sizes are .300, .350 & .450. Or you can buy them singly for $2.00 ea. plus shipping. I have all three. Great quality for a great price.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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21gun posted this 07 August 2013

Thank you guys, It has been a task to get information for the top punch to bullet match up. I like the JB weld idea and I will look in to Accurate top punch set.

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highstandard40 posted this 07 August 2013

Something else to consider. Sometimes, it's a good idea for the seater punch to “float” a little. Some lubrisizers have a misalignment issue between the ram bore and the die body. If the top punch fits too snug, it can push the bullet into the die slightly crooked and the result can be a crooked or bent bullet or one sized off axis. When they can be used the flat nose punches help solve this. For a fitted punch, I like for mine to be a slightly loose fit to the nose of the bullet. The application for the “correct” seater punch is usually only close because manufacuring tolerances and production run variances can yield a puch that will not be an exact match. This has prompted the JB approach to get a good fit. Instead, what I do if I have a nose punch that marks the ogive of a particular bullet is to reshape the punch to a loose fit. I do this by chucking the punch in a cordless drill and spinning it and then slowly dress the contour of the punch with a Dremel tool. Also, I don't run a bullet down into a die with a quick, single stroke. I give it a small start into the die then back off slightly and then again press it further to be sure it is entering the die straight, especially with long bullets. Shorter stubby bullets are less prone to issues of misalignment.

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Dale53 posted this 07 August 2013

I would like to add a bit to highstandard40's post. In addition to his method, I do NOT tighten the set screw on the nose punch. It just pushes the nose punch out of line. Instead, I put a smear of grease where the rim of the nose punch seats and that “sticks” the punch in place. The grease allows the nose punch to self center on the bullet. Since all of the force is applied “down” I have no problems with the punch falling out...

Just a thought... Dale53

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csparks1106 posted this 18 April 2014

Ok, just going to go ahead and ask it. What's a top punch, or any kind of punch for that matter? Incredibly new to all this, and am using a tumble lube wad cutter mold. No lube sizing so far and I'm sure that's where they come into play.   Sorry had to ask.

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highstandard40 posted this 19 April 2014

csparks1106 wrote: Ok, just going to go ahead and ask it. What's a top punch, or any kind of punch for that matter? Incredibly new to all this, and am using a tumble lube wad cutter mold. No lube sizing so far and I'm sure that's where they come into play.   Sorry had to ask. If you will look at an illustration of, for example, a Lyman 4500 or such lubri-sizer, it has basically an upper ram that moves up and down by manipulating a  lever...........and a lower section that is a lube reservoir into which a sizer die is attached. To lube a bullet you place a bullet “nose up” into the mouth of the sizer die and lower the ram to push the bullet into the die which will size the bullet and, by force of pressure in the lube reservoir, push lube into the grease groove. The “top punch” is a bullet specific punch that attaches to the ram and fits the nose of the bullet being sized. It is form fitting to that bullet so as not to deform the bullet nose by the force which is needed to be applied to that nose to achieve sizing. 

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csparks1106 posted this 19 April 2014

I wondered by what I've read if that wasn't what the top punch was. So a 30 caliber spitzer will have a different top punch than a 30 caliber flat nose?

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John Boy posted this 04 June 2014

21gun - I don't do much H&I lube sizing but here's my method for top punches when I do: * Caliber specific, buy one TP that is a round nose ogive. * Then get out your hot glue gun.  Fill the cavity with the hot glue - spit on the bullet and then insert it in the hot glue and spin it * With one round nose punch, you can form a perfect nose imprint of a speer point, flat metplate or round nose

Then for a different bullet, just dig out the hot glue and start all over again.  I use hot glue also in seating die plugs because there is no one plug that can be used to preclude putting rings on a given bullet's ogive

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