Knurleing bullets

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  • Last Post 12 August 2013
technojock posted this 31 January 2013

This is something I always planned to try but didn't have much reason to until now.  I don't have a mold for my .45-70 yet and until I get one, I want to try shooting the bullets I cast for my .45 auto in it.  I figure if I can't make it work, I haven't lost much.

Anyway I rolled a few of my freshly cast but cooled 230 grain bullets between a matching set of files for about 10 or 15 seconds each.  I think I could do 2 or 3 at a time but that's for later.

They went up from .453” as cast to .460".  I'm planning give them a thick tumble lube of Alox (maybe 2 coats) and see how they shoot.

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John Alexander posted this 31 January 2013

Sorry, I haven't tried it so can't offer any help, but it is a very interesting idea and certainly worth a try.

i will look forward to hearing how they worked.

John

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R Dupraz posted this 31 January 2013

A new and interesting technique for cast!

I have a friend who is a BPCR shooter and has knurled the bullets used in his Sharps 50 for some time, with success.

Keep us posted.

RD

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32ideal posted this 31 January 2013

Have used the Corbin knurling tool (see link below) for about 9yrs now and am very satisfied with the results on expanding the diameter on low velocity undersize cast bullets, I use the Rooster liquid jacket for lube (sadly not available at the present time).

http://www.corbins.com/hct-2.htm>http://www.corbins.com/hct-2.htm

32ideal

:cba:

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codarnall posted this 31 January 2013

I vote for its simplicity, lead swarf, well that's a 911 Hazmat problem. Be sure to call 'em.

Charlie

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Bob 11B50 posted this 31 January 2013

What a neat idea. I've got just the bullet to try it on. I have an RCBS mold that casts a nice looking 0.406” 260 gr flat point that would work nicely in my model '86 Winny that is 0.408” bore 40-65. Thanks for a great idea.

Bob 11B50

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onondaga posted this 31 January 2013

I disagree with the theory of knurling bullets and believe the knurling makes a pathway for gas jetting. To believe that lube in knurling will stop gas jetting seems folly to me. There may be an optimal size that minimizes gas jetting and some may get them to perform well, but I think you would be better off to start with a chamber casting and get your bullets sized to slide fit into your chamber throat with as large diameter bullet that will load. A simple tumble lube with 45:45:10 would be excellent and well proven with the 45-70 and bullets that fit.

250 gr is very much underweight for the 45-70 to shoot well also. Lee 405 gr .457  plain base or hollow base .459 un-sized and tumble lubed would be a much better selection;  either one of them generally drop .460-.461” in #2 alloy.

If you want a heavy weight, huge ballistic co-efficient (.443) plain base for the 45-70 the Lee 459-500-3R spire is difficult to beat at all for paper punching and $20.00 for the mold. Lee also has a FNGC 500 grainer too,same price. The one hollow base mold is a little more.

Pea weight 250 grain bullets from a 45-70 rarely get even 2-3 MOA accuracy. The cartridge and rifles for it is designed for ~ 400+ gr bullets.

Gary

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R Dupraz posted this 31 January 2013

I say, give it a try and see what happens. I don't arbitrarily dismiss anything at the outset untill I give it a go for myself. Every once in a while,unconventional thinking proves itself. That's how our affliction advances.

RD

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Duane Mellenbruch posted this 31 January 2013

onondaga wrote: I disagree with the theory of knurling bullets and believe the knurling makes a pathway for gas jetting. To believe that lube in knurling will stop gas jetting seems folly to me. I think this is an interesting approach and worth trying.  I realize that the method does leave a likelihood that gas cutting could occur, but that could be eliminated by either the PVC wads or the CFventure soft gas checks.  This might work better than expected if a soft alloy is used because the Knurling will center the bullet in the bore, and hot gas pressure might be sufficient, with the wad, to form a better seal than knurling alone.There may be an optimal size that minimizes gas jetting and some may get them to perform well, but I think you would be better off to start with a chamber casting and get your bullets sized to slide fit into your chamber throat with as large diameter bullet that will load. A simple tumble lube with 45:45:10 would be excellent and well proven with the 45-70 and bullets that fit. This is more of an enthusiastic approach of shooting what ya got, rather than not shooting at all.  Heck, I have even gone so far as to paper patch a few pistol bullets just to see what kind of difference it would make on the diameter.  But, not having a 45-70 to try it with, I tossed those attempts back into the casting pot. 250 gr is very much underweight for the 45-70 to shoot well also. Lee 405 gr .457  plain base or hollow base .459 un-sized and tumble lubed would be a much better selection;  either one of them generally drop .460-.461” in #2 alloy.

If you want a heavy weight, huge ballistic co-efficient (.443) plain base for the 45-70 the Lee 459-500-3R spire is difficult to beat at all for paper punching and $20.00 for the mold. Lee also has a FNGC 500 grainer too,same price. The one hollow base mold is a little more.

Pea weight 250 grain bullets from a 45-70 rarely get even 2-3 MOA accuracy. The cartridge and rifles for it is designed for ~ 400+ gr bullets."Under weight” bullets serve just fine in other calibers.  Especially for plinking and fun shooting.  Remember, the CBA nature and purpose:  “stimulating and encouraging experiments in casting and handloading cast bullets that will improve the design, accuracy and effectiveness of the ammunition and increase the satisfaction and enjoyment of shooters.I say go for it and let us all know if it works and how much fun you have finding out if it works or not.  Duane

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technojock posted this 01 February 2013

I tried wrapping the bullet in teflon plumbing tape.  This pic is with one layer thick and it only adds .001” to the diameter. 

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delmarskid1 posted this 01 February 2013

They used to make a gallery load for the trapdoor that utilized a light bullet. 50g of FFF topped with oiled sawdust if I remember right. A lot of guys load 300 grained jacketed for deer.

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docbob posted this 01 February 2013

I'VE HAD GOOD LUCK WITH TEFLON PLUMBING TAPE FOR A LONG TIME. IT'S AN EASY “PAPER PATCH” FOR BULLETS THAT I DON'T HAVE A TEMPLATE FOR. JUST MY 2 CENTS WORTH.

 DOCBOB

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codarnall posted this 02 February 2013

I pulled some antique bullets from factory 45-90 's some time back. Win had knurled and waxed them then. Aren't we really talking about BP loads anyway. Perhaps I missed something.

Charlie

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technojock posted this 02 February 2013

No black powder loads for this rifle.  I save that stuff for my muzzle loader.

Anyway I have 50 of these made up and telfon wrapped waiting to load.  Most of my load books are still packed away from my move so I don't have any load data to work with.

I'm looking for a light plinking load with these bullets.  Any suggestions?  I have a good selection of powders to choose from...

Tony

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RicinYakima posted this 02 February 2013

I think it is hard to beat 10.0 grains of Unique in the 45/70 for plinking loads. FWIW, Ric

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technojock posted this 03 February 2013

I was thinking about that much.  The only book I have out shows 12g of Unique for the .45-90 with a 300g bullet but strangely enough not for the .45-70.

I'll get these loaded up over the weekend and hopefully I can take some time to go shooting next week...  I need to sight in the rife too so I'll probably shoot all 50 rounds.

Tony

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JeffinNZ posted this 03 February 2013

I know a VERY good BP pistol shooter who knurls his round balls for a smooth bore handgun.

Cheers from New Zealand

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delmarskid1 posted this 03 February 2013

My thought would be to jack up some 45 colt data a bit. With your bullet wt. you should be okay.

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jhalcott posted this 18 February 2013

I've used Teflon on many calibers with good results. I' definetly use 2 wraps on those bullets. I'd also use a “filler” of about 1/2 grain of poly fill between the powder and bullet. Start low with the powder charge and work up checking for any pressure signs.Lyman #47 shows a 293 grain bullet with SR 4759-26.0 and 30.0 grain max IMR 4198-28.5 and 34.5 grain max with poly in all loads Imr 3031 34.0 and 44.0 grain max also poly in all loads

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stocker posted this 02 July 2013

I paper patch smooth side cast for 303 Brit. and 35 Whelen. I do a similar knurling on a file as it helps retain a tight wrap with some of the hard slick paper I use. Works very well for that application.

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technojock posted this 02 July 2013

jhalcott wrote:  I'd also use a “filler” of about 1/2 grain of poly fill between the powder and bullet. Start low with the powder charge and work up checking for any pressure signs As I recall Ed Harris said not to use fillers because they can cause a ringed chamber.  Have you heard of this problem?

As always I've taken Ed's word as gun gospel and left out the fillers and I haven't noticed any problems.

Tony

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shastaboat posted this 03 July 2013

Looks like a sure bet to lead the barrel to me.

Because I said so!

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jhalcott posted this 03 July 2013

I have HEARD of this but NEVER experienced it. The filler MUST fill the space between the powder and bullet base. A 1/2 to 1 grain of dacron polyester does this quite well. I HAVE tamped the dacron onto the powder and thumped the open neck on the table top to see if I COULD make it move. SO far I've not been successful. I've tried dacron in several calibers with good to excwellent results. I have found that dacron DOES increase velocity a bit. I am only relating MY experiences with dacron and Teflon. Use the information or don't. It took me a couple YEARS to try TUMBLE lubing!

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onondaga posted this 03 July 2013

http://castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=1251>jhalcott

There is some very useful information about using fillers safely in this article and the lesson will remove a lot of misinformation you may have taken as gospel:

http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/castfiller/index.asp>http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/castfiller/index.asp

This is not a short read.

I have the PSB mentioned in the article and it works fine with the precautions mentioned. I also use BPI Original Filler and Dacron Polyester batting, all regularly and without hesitation when needed. My favorite is the BPI because of it's light weight and the side effect that BPI also acts as a quasi gas check for plain based bullets, so it increases the load range for plain based bullets to nearly gas check level.

Gary

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WRDSMTH posted this 11 August 2013

I routinely knurl bullets for my 38-55 by rolling them between two files and then “painting” on a coat or two of liquid alox for lube.I started doing this because one of the bullets I use is SAECO #571, a tapered bullet. Since I wanted to keep the taper and did not have a way to otherwise lube this bullet (except pan lubing), I tried the above process and find it works well. This should work well for those using a heeled bullet as well.

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grouch posted this 12 August 2013

Theories are fine, but we won't REALLY know 'til you try it. I agree with Duane - let us know how it goes. Grouch

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GBertolet posted this 12 August 2013

I have had success knuerling shotgun slugs, in an effort to increase their diameter. I lay the slugs on a board and run a coarse woodworking rasp over them, rolling the slug the length of the rasp. You can get a pretty consistent diameter, by duplicating the same number of passes and pressure.

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