Commercial 45:45:10 tested

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  • Last Post 15 October 2013
onondaga posted this 23 January 2013

I placed an order for a quart of 45:45:10 to White Label Lube Company at $15 per quart and $5.60 for shipping. The order was done by email and I regular mailed a check the same day for payment. The order arrived today, in 7 days. That is very prompt service for sending a check US snail mail and getting the package delivered Priority Mail.

The weather is cold here, 12 degrees F.,  so I placed it close to my radiator to get it to room temperature.  The contents were stiff from the cold as arrived . At room temp the 45:45:10 has the same consistency as my home made batches, about like Hershey's syrup.

I pre-heated a small batch of 350 gr cast bullets for my .500 S&W rifle 5 minutes on warm in my kitchen oven. the bullets were just dumped into an aluminum brownie pan. Before the 5 minutes were up I had transferred some 45:45:10 to a small squirt bottle and warmed it open in the microwave 3 times for 30 seconds each time. The little squirt bottle holds 6 ounces and was warmed to about 150 degrees F.

I put the warmed bullets in a half of a plastic 1/2 gallon milk container then squirted a little 45:45:10 on them. I tilt the container 45 degrees and rotate for 1 minute. Immediately I noticed the commercial stuff is just as clear as my own stuff when applied by tumbling as I always do.

After the one minute of tumbling I poured the bullets into a clear plastic tray to dry.

http://www.lsstuff.com/lsstuff>http://www.lsstuff.com/lsstuff . The product is available now.

http://www.lsstuff.com/45-45-10/45-45-10-01.jpg>http://www.lsstuff.com/45-45-10/45-45-10-01.jpg click link to view product picture.

Gary P.S.  All my .500 S&W brass is loaded and my range is still closed, so, I have to continue waiting to shoot these... I am confident they will be fine.

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Chargar posted this 23 January 2013

What are the applications and limits of this stuff? I am also interested in knowing your results. Let us know.

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onondaga posted this 23 January 2013

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=144>Chargar:

I stopped using conventional pressure lube when  Lee Liquid Alox hit the market many years ago and never turned back when I started tumble lubing.  The 45:45:10 formula is an improvement beyond Lee LLA in that it dries non tacky in 10 minutes when the bullets and lube have been warmed, it is clearer in color, stinks less and smokes less when shooting than LLA

Many cast bullet shooters are heavily invested in pressure lube presses and dies and tradition. They will never change to the brilliant innovation of tumble lube and continue to question it.

Neither pressure lube or tumble lube  will compensate for undersize bullets but many pressure lube enthusiasts try to show that their method lessens leading and helps increase accuracy with undersize bullets. There is no leading when bullets fit correctly and even ear wax would be a fine lube with good fitting bullets and a slick bore finish.

I have found no limitation of 45:45:10 due to velocity or bullet design and I tumble lube everything in all my calibers .223 - .500 S&W . my .223 shoots 1 MOA at 100 yards at 2400+fps and I've tested to 2550 without lube failure in .223. Bullet fit is most important with cast bullets. When you get that, any reasonable lube will suffice. 45:45:10 is a reasonable lube that I use for everything and am very happy with it. For me, tumble lube made traditional pressure lube completely obsolete many years ago and I am glad White Label Lube has made 45:45:10 available so I don't have to mix my own anymore..

I don't see, smell or feel any difference in this product from my home made 45:45:10, and am confident it has been made to the formula correctly.

Gary

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Lefty posted this 23 January 2013

Gary If the bullets are not preheated, what happens. Does the lube remain tacky or does it just take longer to dry.

I ordered a bottle a week ago so it should arrive soon.

Jim

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Pigslayer posted this 23 January 2013

Of course, I, like many love their lubrisizers and will not give them up! But . . . I do tumble lube also with LEE Alox. I liked your method of warming the bullets as well as the lube. My little shop is limited as far as electrical power especially in the winter. My shop is well insulated & I use a oil filled heater to heat it. A hot plate would tax my single 20 amp circuit while using .the heater so I simply put the bullets in a small metal dish and my lube bottle in a small pan filled with water & put both on the heater. In about a half hour both are warm along with myself & ready for tumble lubing. Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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onondaga posted this 23 January 2013

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=302>Lefty:

If you don't warm the bullets and lube, it will not spread as effectively and evenly, it will take a couple hours to dry at room temp also. I prefer to speed the process up as I usually  will be loading the bullets immediately after a 10 minute dry of the warmed bullets and lube...yes,  the heat does work very will to take full advantage of the products unique properties, but heating is by no means mandatory, it is my preference that I recommend.

If you want a thick coating, no heat will do that too, But I prefer to do 1 coat heated before sizing/checking and 2 coats heated after  for gas checked rifle bullets.

The bullets pictured are plain base non gas checked bullets and one coat is sufficient for pistols in that instance. Two coats for rifle bullets that are plain base is common and recommended in the original Lee instructions for LLA. A second coat has been applied to those 50 cal Plain Base rifle bullets. They didn't get darker either.

There is some new stuff to learn when you begin tumble lubing but is is very easy and fast even with the heating,  and huge batches are no problem, just use bugger containers and tumble a little longer when you are doing 500 bullets at a time! 100-200 at a time is fine with a milk carton for tumbling but I use a plastic 1 and 1/4 gallon ice cream container for 500.

I have warmed the lube in hot water as mentioned; that works fine too. I have also used a heat blower gun to warm the bullets in a pan or sieve; that works fine too. it really doesn't take any fuss--just heat, but I warn against getting either the bullets or lube warmer than you can touch safely.

Gary

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Lefty posted this 24 January 2013

Thanks Gary

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 24 January 2013

thanks for the effort re: 45-45-10 .... and your patience in repeat iterations again ..

i think getting information to stick ... is a bit like radar ...one iteration just don't work ... you have to keep vibrating the airwaves, then watch for feedback, then repeat over and over again ...

does take some power, and thank you for providing that ...

ken, about to order some ” lube/sealer/flex-check .... )

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williamwaco posted this 31 January 2013

I use LLA and Xlox. I can see no difference.

I used to dilute them 30% with mineral spirits. I no longer do that. I use it straight.

I can't squeeze it out of the bottle with any amount of control so I reach in with a screwdriver blade and pull out a blob and put it in a zip lock bag to tumble.

I do not heat anything. I set the cooky sheet under the ceiling fan over night and find that unless it is rainy weather they dry nicely and un tacky over night.

I find this method so easy and satisfactory I don't understand the need for 45/45/10.

What will it gain me?

.

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onondaga posted this 31 January 2013

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=5853>williamwaco:

45:45:10 will gain you absolutely nothing if you don't favor quicker drying time, a more even coating that doesn't clump, less stink and smoke when you shoot,  less color and tackiness that you can't see or feel because you have made up your mind otherwise and refuse to be dazzled with the facts. You also will not have to shake or tumble dents into your bullets with a properly mixed commercial product that is way thinner in viscosity than dried out semi solid XLOX and LLA that are identical to each other.

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williamwaco posted this 01 February 2013

Thanks,

I will give it a try.

.

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Pigslayer posted this 01 February 2013

Guess that I'll have to get a quart & try it.

Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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Green Frog posted this 02 February 2013

Onandaga, with regards to firing 223 bullets lubed with 45-45-10 (or any other cast bullets for that matter) I am wondering whether that would be with an AR15 :coolgun: or limited to a bolt gun? :riflebr: I have yet to fire my first cast round through a gas operated gun but am wondering how they will affect the gas systems of the guns? I've shot cast in semis like my 45s for years as well as revolvers and single shot rifles, but I have no experience at all with cast bullets in gas guns. Is any special treatment needed? :thinking: Thanks in advance!

Froggie

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cptuap posted this 02 February 2013

My guess is that the lead and lube would muck up the gas system. Good luck.

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Green Frog posted this 02 February 2013

cptuap wrote: My guess is that the lead and lube would muck up the gas system. Good luck.

That's exactly my concern. :coffee Anyone wit firsthand knowledge?

Froggie

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onondaga posted this 02 February 2013

I only shoot cast in my AR15. Again, bullet fit is critical, if your bullets aren't big enough to stop gas jetting, in addition to shooting all over the place you will likely have your gas system gunked up also. I size and check my .223 bullets at .225” and lube 45:45:10 once before size/check twice after. Alloy for these should be Lyman #2 or slightly harder. Loads should not be hot, just enough to work the action.

If you are going to shoot cast in your AR15, I suggest a clean change for good and don't go back to jacketed. Get all coppering out of your bore first before shooting cast and polish your bore for cast bullets. Switching back and forth with jacketed/cast is an area of debate. My position is that it is horrible thing to do to a bore and you can get coppering that lead will fuze to in your bore.

I shoot the 225646 bullet in my AR and they all up weigh 60 grains for me in #2 alloy with GC and lube. They will function the action starting about 2200 fps with AA2230.

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R Dupraz posted this 02 February 2013

I have a friend and know of others that shoot cast all the time through his M-1 Garand with no problems. I regularlly use cast bullets in my Garand as well but I removed the valve in the gas cylinder plug so that it can be operated manually as a single shot,which is a little different again, with no problems.

Of course this gas system is different than the direct gas impingement system in the AR's, where the gas,fouling etc is directed right back into the action.

Even with the valve in the gas cylinder plug in my Garand removed and the action not working, I get a very slight lead wash on the front of the gas cylinder piston.Doesn't bother and easily removed.And all the rest of the stuff is vented out the front and not back into the action as would be the case with the AR.

RD

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noylj posted this 12 March 2013

I can't believe that so many are still sizing bullets! It's great having a source of 45/45/10 and NOT having to make it myself. One thing about under sized bullets (which I don't have with my as-cast bullets but have had with commercial bullets) is that a little LLA on the bullets eliminate or greatly reduces leading. The straight LLA is very tenacious and seems to seal quite well.

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21gun posted this 28 September 2013

I have used this same product. I like it better then pan lubing. The only thing I don't get a “tack free” bullet. I don't know if I am using to much or just not prepping the bullet and/or the lube. I heat both the bullets and lube so I assume its the amount. Any help for you guys would awesome!

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mike morrison posted this 28 September 2013

I have a bottle of Rooster Jacket. Anyone have a comparison. I find it to work like your description of the 45 45 10 but not to dry quite as quickly. m

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onondaga posted this 28 September 2013

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=7218>21gun

When the bullets and lube are warmed, the amount of lube used is still very important. Use the least amount that will only wet the bullets when tumbling. If you find you have used too much and the lube is puddling in the container as you tumble, immediately pour bullets into  a clean container and continue tumbling. If you really over did the lube you can pour the bullets into a third container and continue tumbling.

I just don't have anything close to your problem and my bullets start to visibly dry during the first tumble..Occasionally I have to add more lube because the bullets didn't all wet, but I usually get it right.

Try to be very sparing with the lube. less is better as long as they are covered lightly and evenly, they are done and ready to spill and dry completely on wax paper.

A sure sign  that you really misjudged and over applied the lube by way too much is very visible: when you spill the wetted bullets on the wax paper if the lube drains off the bullets and even slightly puddles around a bullet you have used more than twice as much or more lube than is used to do the job right.  Use a lot less next time and watch the bullets on the wax paper. They should not be draining and should dry right in front of your eyes very quickly when lube and bullets have been warmed before use.

Gary

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onondaga posted this 28 September 2013

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=61>mike morrison:

I've never tried Rooster Jacket and likely won't. I work so hard on getting my bullet fit correct that when I am done and have a good fit, the brand of lube is inconsequential to the results. I never get leading and have tested all my calibers and bullets with Lee LLA and 45:45:10 with no lube failure even on my fastest load in .223 Rem at 2550 fps. with gas checked bullets in #2 alloy. Bullet fit is much more important than lube.

If you like Rooster Jacket, I'd say keep using it. But neither your lube or mine will do very well with bullets too small or alloy too soft or too hard for your load level. Lube should not be expected to compensate for poor bullet fit or poor alloy selection.

Gary

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tturner53 posted this 28 September 2013

I've found the Rooster Jacket to be useful with low pressure loads. Once it's dry it's a little less gooey than LLA.

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mike morrison posted this 28 September 2013

I understand that Rooster Jacket is no more. I have used very little tumble lube as I have always used the old school stuff. I have had the Rooster Jacket for several years and had not tried it until lately. it dries completely and is clear. I have been using it on bullets for a big bore air rifle (pcp) it is doing fine here but it is all subsonic. I will try some of on .223 shortly. I am only pushing my 223 at 1900 now with no leading. m

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oscarflytyer posted this 02 October 2013

White Label Lube Co just had a shop fire... Thye hope to be back up soon. No one hurt, which is the best news of all.

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mike morrison posted this 02 October 2013

wishing the best for white label thanks for the info

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bill_clancy posted this 15 October 2013

R Dupraz wrote: I have a friend and know of others that shoot cast all the time through his M-1 Garand with no problems. I regularlly use cast bullets in my Garand as well but I removed the valve in the gas cylinder plug so that it can be operated manually as a single shot,which is a little different again, with no problems.

Of course this gas system is different than the direct gas impingement system in the AR's, where the gas,fouling etc is directed right back into the action.

Even with the valve in the gas cylinder plug in my Garand removed and the action not working, I get a very slight lead wash on the front of the gas cylinder piston.Doesn't bother and easily removed.And all the rest of the stuff is vented out the front and not back into the action as would be the case with the AR.

RD

I did the same with an SKS, Lee gas checked bullet with a hard pan lube. Worked like a charm...and I could recover my brass!

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