SIZING DIE WON'T TURN

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  • Last Post 10 June 2012
joeb33050 posted this 07 June 2012

With size or seat dies, any die set to touch the shell holder then the lock ring locked-the die won't turn = unscrew. Another try I put the die in the press, raise the ram so the shell holder is up to top of travel, screw the die down until it touches the shell holder, turn the lock ring down all the way, then turn the lock screw in on the lock ring. RCBS style or Lyman style dies. The die is locked in the press and won't come out. All dies except Lee-lock rings have no screws. Is this normal? Why the lock screw in lock rings? joe b.

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Paul Pollard posted this 07 June 2012

Maybe to set it at that position and not need to worry about resetting it each time you use that die set? Unless, of course, you prefer to fiddle with it each time.

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shastaboat posted this 07 June 2012

When you tighten the set screw on th elock ring it expands the lock ring which locks your die. Back the loack ring off a few degrees before tightning the loak ring. I set my dies so I get a slight cam-over knock from the ram when it's raised to it's fullest if full length resizing.

Because I said so!

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CB posted this 07 June 2012

Because you are creating a mechanical lock when you screw the locking ring down snug against the press. The ring pulls the die up, against the threads in the press, locking it into place.It takes force to remove the die. If your die has wrench flats, you should be able to put a wrench on it, and unscrew it. If you have the dies set screw locked into place, you'll be able to screw the die in to the same position every time from that point forward.

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joeb33050 posted this 07 June 2012

I guess I wasn't clear. FL sizing die, RCBS, instructions = raise ram, screw die in until it touches shell holder, 1/8-1/4 turn more in to get cam-over effect. I do and I snug the lock ring down. The lock rings-2 types-set screw into threads of die and set screw pulling split lock ring together. Lock ring set screw tightened, the die won't unscrew. Now, I can loosen the lock ring and fiddle around so that with the lock ring set screw tight the die is 1/8-1/4 turn below touching the shell holder. BUT I wondered if there was another way, that I'm missing, to set the lock ring so I don't have to reset it each time I use it. Or go through the fiddle process. Seems like if there's a set screw to lock the lock ring, there'd be an easy way to set the die/lock ring/set screw. Maybe not. RCBS makes/sells both kinds of lock rings, one has a brass set screw. joe b.

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LWesthoff posted this 07 June 2012

I have the lock ring set on all my dies; if I have two different rifles that require different settings for the same caliber, I buy another die and set the lock ring at the proper setting for each. When I unscrew the die, I use a wrench on the lock ring. If the lock ring doesn't have flats for a wrench, I use a pair of pliers with the jaws cushioned by a couple thicknesses of cloth. It only takes a tiny fraction of a turn to pop it loose; then it can be unscrewed with finger pressure. I never considered it a problem.

Wes

P.S.  You have to lower the ram, so it's not putting pressure against the die, before you try to unscrew it.

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TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 07 June 2012

I do a “partial” full-length sizing - to do a minimal sizing to reduce brass work-hardening. Lock the screw down at just the right place.

I don't bring the die down tight, but just off bottoming out. That prevents the die locking up. It also lets it center itself (axially) so that the resulting run-out is less.

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onondaga posted this 07 June 2012

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=3>joeb33050:

If what you are saying is a complaint, I don't understand. You are setting lock rings to lock and they are locking.  Some die makers have double rings to lock, some have Neoprene rings to lock some have set screws to lock, some have split rings to lock. Should you want a different type locking method than came your dies, you have to buy them separately.

Most loaders have their favorite type and either get that brand of dies or they purchase the rings they want. That is just a choice, nothing to complain about.

Your dies are not locked in the press so they can't come out, come on man, use a wrench or two.

Gary

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CB posted this 07 June 2012

The simplest explanation is to think of the die a a length of threaded rod. The threaded portion of the press is a nut. The lock ring is another nut. If you screw one nut tightly to the other, you are doing what mechanics call “double nutting". This is the method used to remove threaded studs from engines, or whatever. To loosen, you must separate one nut from the other. I takes a bit of effort. If one nut is immobile, i.e the press, you must move the other nut to loosen. Since the lock ring is locked to the die, you end up moving the die and the lock ring as a unit. This isn't as pronounced with LEE lock rings because the o-ring adds a bit of slop to the assembly.

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runfiverun posted this 08 June 2012

pair of chanell locks backs them right out. then you just screw them back in untill the nut touches again. i set my dies to just push the shoulder back about .001 enough to chamber easily. then i can back it out to partial size. mainly i just use a neck sizer,then anneal when needed, that's when they get resized.

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EdS posted this 10 June 2012

I've been reloading for over 50 years and I believe that the instructions to adjust the FL sizing die down to a firm or “cam over” fit to the shell holder is an open invitation to create excess headspace with rimless, bottle-neck cases in many rifles. What you really need to do is find the FL sizing die adjustment that sets the case shoulder back 0.001” to 0.003” to allow chambering without creating excess headspace. Start with a case fired in your rifle that does not want to fully chamber and with the FL die backed out 1/2 - 3/4 turn from touching the shell holder. Size and test. Repeat, screwing the die down a few degrees at at time until the case JUST chambers with little to no drag on the bolt face. This is easier to feel if you can remove the firing pin/spring from bolt actions. -Ed

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John Alexander posted this 10 June 2012

I believe EdS is absolutely right. I have always FL sized this way and have never had a case head separation. I believe that excessive FL sizing is what causes them.

John

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 10 June 2012

i always set my dies a few thousandths from full lock ring contact ...thinking the ---float ---will help align everything ...

interesting that the terrific bonanza/forster co-ax press works backwards ...seems to load good ammo ...oh well  ---- ken

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