Glen Fryxell's lube.

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  • Last Post 18 May 2010
Changeling posted this 27 April 2010

I would appreciate all the information I can get o Mr. Fryxell Lube of 50/50 Bees wax and Moly. 

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RicinYakima posted this 27 April 2010

Well, I've used it and it works OK, as advertized. The 50/50 beeswax and moly chassis lube is a little stiffer than old NRA formula and melts at a higher temperture. The only thing I have against it is that it requires brushing the bore with a copper brush to keep the moly down. It is worse in rifle throats than more advanced formulas for building up fouling. But it is cheap to make and easy to use if you don't mind messy cleaning chores. HTH, Ric

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Changeling posted this 28 April 2010

I thought that shooting just kept the moly down? Would you please expound on the messy cleaning chores? I really don't know!

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Changeling posted this 28 April 2010

What would be the best way to add Carnauba wax to this mixture in an amount to leave a clean/shinny barrel? I know that Johnson's paste wax has a small amount of carnauba in it, but not sure how much should be used in this recipe or even if it should be used/compatible wit ingredients.

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CB posted this 28 April 2010

When I experiment with lubes, I usually add 10% to the total, sooooo 40% BeesWax - 10% Carnuba - 50% grease. Carnuba ought ot be compatible. Anymore Carnuba and I get a build up at the muzzle end, especially in colder weather......................Dan

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RicinYakima posted this 28 April 2010

Changeling,

I'm not really a lube guy, but a benchrest match shooter. With that said, I do experiment and try lubes that may increase my score. The issue I have with beeswax and petroleum based lubes is that it burns from the heat of the powder charge. The residue sticks to the bore, especially in front of the throat.

Accuracy depends upon the same bore condition for every shot. If you have to brush the bore it takes some number of fouling shots to get your grouping ability back. I shot one year never cleaning the bore, with synthetic lube, and did well with just a dry patch at the end of the day. Synthetic lube normal doesn't burn and you just use very little of it.

HTH, Ric

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RicinYakima posted this 28 April 2010

I agree with Dan, a little goes a long way of carnuba wax. Johnson's has so little carnuba wax his 10% should be good. It is a petroleum based grease/micro-crystalian wax with mineral spirts, so mixes well.

My problem with any Mo(SO4)2 product is that it gets on everything and my wife beats me when she has to wash my clothes. Plus moly seems to build on itself and make lumpy fouling. The only thing I really use it on are the sears of military rifles and then only a pin head size drop of grease.

Ric

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CB posted this 30 April 2010

RicinYakima wrote: My problem with any Mo(SO4)2 product is that it gets on everything and my wife beats me when she has to wash my clothes. Plus moly seems to build on itself and make lumpy fouling. The only thing I really use it on are the sears of military rifles and then only a pin head size drop of grease. I also agree with Rick about graphite and moly greases. They are better off used as an enrichment to a non-moly synthetic grease bullet lube. “Just a dab will do ya", usually where it will darken the color (red, blue, or green) just a very little bit.............Dan

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CB posted this 30 April 2010

Ric,

What brand or brands of synthetic lubes have you had good luck with?

John

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RicinYakima posted this 01 May 2010

Grey #24 and Voodoo.

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DAMRON G posted this 01 May 2010

I tried Voodoo in plainbased loads in the 1200 fps range in the 30-06 and .375 H&H and had erratic accuracy,though it worked well in high velocity 22's.I think softer lubes like 50/50 parafin(or beeswax)/vasaline better at lower velocites.Hard lubes have not done as well for me at the lower end of things in rifles.

George

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Changeling posted this 09 May 2010

Dan Willems wrote: RicinYakima wrote: My problem with any Mo(SO4)2 product is that it gets on everything and my wife beats me when she has to wash my clothes. Plus moly seems to build on itself and make lumpy fouling. The only thing I really use it on are the sears of military rifles and then only a pin head size drop of grease. I also agree with Rick about graphite and moly greases. They are better off used as an enrichment to a non-moly synthetic grease bullet lube. “Just a dab will do ya", usually where it will darken the color (red, blue, or green) just a very little bit.............Dan  Guys thanks a lot for the reply. I'm sorry for the late come back but I had to learn more about what I'm talking about, witch means very little in the way of lube for cast bullets.    My intention is to make a really good lube that I can depend on for accuracy. It would be definitely desirable if it didn't lead foul either.    This will be for 44 mag and 45LC revolver bullets. I got the starting idea for this lube from another forum and it sounded like what I needed. However some of the information that you have provided was left out. I would really appreciate your help in making this lube.   My original intention (from the other forum) was to use 3 parts bees wax and 1 part Lithium grease. But after getting the information from you, I am thinking of the following.   The 3 parts bees wax to 1 part synthetic grease (Castrol)  (brand from other forum)  with a touch or carnuba flakes and steric acid.

  I would really appreciate your not letting me make a mistake if it is within your knowledge.    Accuracy is the first priority at all revolver velocities for the above revolvers.

  Can you help?

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Changeling posted this 09 May 2010

Forgot to add, my lady friend (read this) says I will also get beat if it messes up my cloths, LOL.

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CB posted this 09 May 2010

All my shooting is done with rifles. I'm not sure about handgun results and accuracy. Be sure to keep good records of what you do as you change or modify formulas, changing only one parameter at a time. I think in a handgun lube a higher wax content will probably not give you problems like what we get in rifle barrels as build-up etc.

I enjoy the experimenting as much as just shooting :)..............Dan

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 10 May 2010

Hi, back when I wuz obsessed with 22 rimfire, I dabbed nearly every 22 I shot for several years ... with different mixes, mostly with moly added.

With any moly mix, I found that I almost always slobbed on more than I needed.

Near the end of my interest ( when ARA asked us to quit experimenting with our ammo (g)) I had arrived at the conclusion that at least with moly lubes you could merely shine the bullet, and even only 1 every 3 shots !!!!!!!! and still have enough ” molly “.


So ... I would suggest everyone out there playing with moly mixes to try just the very teeniest amount possible, ... I did tho run a greasy moly rag thru the barrel before the weekend match, just to start even.

In rimfire at least it is all about the little empty space in front of the case ... it fills with a lead ring in standard/match chambers, but the argument is ” fill it full with a few shots and leave the lead ring there forevermore “   or..... clean as needed to keep the lead ring away ... as in, every 25 shots... sometimes more often cleaning ...

part of the fun... ken campbell, iowa

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JSH posted this 11 May 2010

I don't know a lot on this subject, but I have been making my own lube for CB's pretty much from the get go. About 6-7 years now. I have tried none of the synthetic lubes, so I can't comment on them as to a bullet lube. I have used the synthetics in actions and find there to be a lot of “snake oil” salesmen out there. Don't take that wrong folks. I would buy syntetic lube from an indiviual to try before I did from one of the big comapany suppliers.

The lube I have used for rifle and pistol is FWFL, felix world famous lube. It consist of bees wax, mineral oil, lanolin and zinc sterate. I have ran this through an 06 up to 2500 fps with no issues. I am however not a high end speed rifle shooter. I look for the best accuracy I can get at safe pressure. I have used the above mentioned lube in all of my wheel guns and single shot pistols in a variety of bottle neck cases with excellent results. This is just from my readings and what I have seen in engines. Petroleum based lubes will get hot and turn to either hard ash or gummy tar of sorts when heated enough and subjected to pressure. So, that is why I steer clear of any petro based stuff. Moly...........imho, the verdct is still out on this. I have several good friends that played with it when it was all the rage. Thoughts are pretty much split down the middle on it. Moly will foul a bore and needs to be cleaned. Once it gets into the pores of a barrel I don't think you will every get it out. One thing a group of us did see was it seemed to either work better or worse in SS than it did in a CM barrel. I mean the SS barrel either got better or worse. A CM barrel, new barrel and stay with moly and it was fine. A used barrel with moly seemed to get spikey and erratic. I suspect as did other that the moly layered in on top of the fouling and pretty much leaded, as a CB would do on gilding materiel fouling. The tried electronic bore cleaning along with what ever else and it did not seem to help. jeff

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Changeling posted this 14 May 2010

Thats some really good information Jeff, thanks,

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Changeling posted this 18 May 2010

 Hi Jef, The things you say are very interesting concerning the “Moly” in CM and SS barrels. Right now I am working with a SS revolver barrel in 45LC witch according to your comments leaves me in the same position as a guy with mouth pain and goes to the dentist, where he is told his teeth are in perfect condition, but his “gums” have to go, LOL.   Not making light of what you had to say at all, with your input and the other guys, I believe I will go with the “Synthetic” and see what develops.

 One comment that everyone seems to agree on in one way or another is a characteristic of Moly to impart itself into the metal. This is true, I read some reports that agreed with these statements.  This in itself could be very good or whatever. However this could also cause testing other combinations of grease/lube invalid due to its presence, especially since one might be trying a synthetic for it's properties alone and not want moly to influence his tests. This is where I am presently!!  So for the present the moly will have to be dropped from the testing/formulas.   So instead of any moly I am going to use a synthetic in a formula for it's merits first.

  Felix lube, there are so many people convinced this is the worlds greatest lube that I am making a batch to be used in the testing of the 45LC.

  So at this point the testing will involve the Felix lube a version of Buck1's lube with synthetic grease and a couple others.  This is really getting interesting and expensive, LOL.

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