Ok. I'll try to explain what's going on. It the first my chamber is short. So I have to leave the base way down,which I don't want to do. Bullet alloy is junk wheel weights. Comes out about 14 bhn with lee tester. Bullets are Lyman 86 gr Lovering. The other is NOE.bore rider 106. They both come out over size. I got the NOE nose sizers. I can NOT size any of them down to where they will go past the chamber to allow the gas checks to stay in the necks. Even lubing the bullets. So any ideas, suggestions,etc...maybe it's newer wheel weights. Some of them are 12 bhn.
243 problems..need corrected
- 297 Views
- Last Post 20 February 2023
- Topic Is Solved
I’m shooting gas checks in the powder. I can’t tell the difference.
Problem solved. Went to a little softer alloy. Bullet fits like a glove now. Now to load a few, and get to the range..
Sounds like a problem I had tooling up to load for a .236 (6mm) Winchester-Lee Navy straight-pull sporting rifle. This one was in like new condition, and though it had been shot, bore was mint condition with metford rifling. The problem was that the throat measured .2435" with a groove dia. of .2445. Bore dia. was .2365. No matter how small neck was sized for tight bullet fit..bullet was pushed deeper into case as action closed...and with this one, there was no such thing as gently closing bolt..you had to get a good running start to cam bolt into locking notch. What I had to do was size complete bullet to .244", then using a .243 sizer, bullet was sized nose first to reduce 1st. band. I was concerned about bullet being only .2435 dia. .001" under groove dia. Ho6wever, the gas check spring back after sizing seems to seal..at any rate, no leading was found. Bullets are seated out so about the last .050" or so is felt as a snug fit as action closes with no bullet push back.
What is the "dropped" nose diameter of the NOE?
Is this diameter consistent for the nose's length,or is there any taper to the design?
How consistent is your nose dimension across say 10 examples?
sounds like re-throating could be considered ... this is a relatively easy job and can probably be done without totally disassembling the rifle. give the gunsmith a couple of sample dummy cartridges seated the way you want ...
you could do this yourself if you could borrow ... or rent ... a throater and handle. proceed carefully, you won't feel the teensy chips being cut .
2frogs ... another reason to buy known alloys ... a couple years ago I cast scrap metal for 2 hours and wound up with a box of bullets that were too fat for my 30 carbine ... and i hate to size for just plinking ...
Don't forget that many current wheel weights are made of zinc.
Dale M. Lock
Ask me how I know. I had a bunch of WW's and my neighbor offered to melt them down as he runs a wood stove in his shop all winter. When he brought them back he said, "Boy some of those WW's did not want to melt very easy, so I had to leave them in the stove longer." Palm to forehead. I think there is a way to seperate the two metals, but I have other alloys I know are good.
Dale M. Lock
You know,I had thought about that as well. That's why I'm going to buy the alloy. It should be a lot better. I'm going to try zip metal as they are a lot closer to me.. thanks for the reply..
I have continued to use COWW for my bullet alloy.
YES, about the Zinc ones being virtual poison to a pot of lead. The Iron WW will simply float and not contaminate a pot of lead if you miss some, they can be dipped out.
YES, a simple, but Yes, somethat time consuming procedure to identify and separate out
the Zinc and Iron WW from the typical current bucket of COWW before you try to melt down and
"render" a bucket full.
First of all, Zinc WW Usually have "Zn' mark on them. But (maybe) not always.
SO, I will sit at a bucket of COWW, to sort them.
Use of a razor Utility knife:
On EACH WW, first look for the clip to be riveted to the body . That will be Iron as in Fe.
Discard them in separate bucket to later be sold at the scrap yard.
THEN, with the Utility knife, try to "carve" off a sliver of each WW. The lead alloy WW will slice
kind of with a smooth almost buttery cut action.
The ZINC: the Utility knife will Chatter. Bingo, Discard into a separate bucket, to be sold as
"Zinc Die cast" at the scrap yard.
IF a WW, not obviously riveted, an Iron/ Fe one, the razor Utility knife will not "cut in" at all, It will just
roughly slide down the edge of the WW.
The process can be "visited" here and there as you have a bit of in-between time. Once you get into the process
it is surprisingly productive,
Now you cna
Having a little zinc is not going to be bad. .25%-.5% will actually help you if you want a little bit harder bullet. Don't believe what has been said about it. Where you get in trouble is when you start to go over this. And you can only get about 2% to actually dissolve into it anyway. The rest will float on top. Calcium and bismuth in the alloy will create more problems than zinc.
- All Categories
- General Polls
- Contact Us w/ Forum Issues
- Welcome to The Cast Bullet Association Forum
- Bullet Casting
Guns and Shooting
- AR Platform
- TC Contenders & Other Single Shot Handguns
- Informal Matches & Other Shooting Events
- Gunsmithing Tips
- Gun Cleaning & Maintenance
- Benchrest Cast Bullet Shooting
- Military Bench Rest Cast Bullet Shooting
- Silhouette Shooting
- Postal Match Cast Bullet Shooting
- Factory Guns
- Black Powder Cartridge
- Hand Guns
- Lever Guns
- Single Shot Rifles
- Bolt Action Rifles
- Military Surplus Rifles
- Plinkers Hollow
- Buy, Sell or Trade
- Other Information & Reference
This Weeks High Earners
- nanuk 9
- Tom Acheson 7
- David Reiss 6
- alphabrass 5
- Hornet 5
- Duane Mellenbruch 5
- John Alexander 5
- RicinYakima 4
- beltfed 4
- Lee Guthrie 3