6BR for Cast Bullet Benchrest

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djohns posted this 15 January 2008

I have a remington 700 that was built to shoot 1000 yard matches. It has a 30 inch douglas barrel 1-8 twist. It was built to shoot the 107 sierra matchking bullets. Would this be a good rifle to try cast bullets in. RCBS makes a 95 grain bullet in 6mm. The chamber in this rifle is throated long for the long sierra 107's. Would like someone else's thoughts on this and recommendations. I was going to rebarrel this rifle to 30br but since it is already 6br with a long throat, thought I might get it a try??

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CB posted this 15 January 2008

You could certainly try it. There only a couple of competitors shooting a 6mm now, both with twsit around 1-9” and 10".  What cartridge chamber do you have in that long range rifle? More than likely you wouldn't need the 30” barrel. As far as rifle equipment components, what works for the jacketed BR shooters at 100 & 200yds will work for CBs, 24"-27” barrels. Also as per jacketed BR, throat fit is critical to BR accuracy.

I have the RCBS mould and find the nose is too small. It just falls down the muzzle of my 6PPC, 243, barrels. That will shoot, but not be match accuracy. I need to lap out the nose section of the mould but haven't done it yet. CBE moulds makes a 100gr gas check bullet I thought about buying, thinking it might be big enough on the nose?..................Dan

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Tom Acheson posted this 15 January 2008

Dan,

Have you tried the Saeco 85-grain mould? I know it's not a long bullet for this particular chambering but wondered what your experiences with it were.

Thanks!

Tom

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djohns posted this 15 January 2008

Thanks for the heads up on the mould. I tried to order one from Buffalo arms and they were out of them. I called my friend Clyde and he said he has an old lyman that cast a 100 grain kind of sharp nose bullet, so I think I will give it a try first. This rifle has a long throat to it. You have just enough room to seat the 107 sierras out to the lands with the bullet seated almost to the bottom of the neck. I'm hoping this lead bullet will be long enough to reach the lands and still be down in the neck at least halfway, will just have to see. I do not have the reamer that cut the chamber in this rifle I borrowed one from a fellow that shot the 1000 yard matches and he would not sell it to me. I have a 6br reamer with a shorter throat and I might have to cut this chamber off rethread and rechamber with it. If I have to go to all that trouble I will probably just go ahead with the 30br, the 6br 1000 yard chamber shoots great and I would kind of like to save the barrel incase I get the fever to shot 1000 yards again,

Thanks for all the info I really appreciate it..djohns

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djohns posted this 15 January 2008

Dan I have never shot a lead bullet in a 6mm that I can recall. I called a friend of mine that has a zillon moulds and he happened to have an old Lyman 100 grain mould in 6mm. I am going to give it a try.

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Fred Sinclair posted this 15 January 2008

Please keep us posted on your project. I too have a 6BR w/ 8” twist and .100 long throat. I kinda' let the idea drop because of the lack of gas checks. Fred

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djohns posted this 15 January 2008

Will do Fred, and by the way are you the Fred Sinclair of benchrest fame. I started shooting benchrest with a sleeved remington 40x 6ppc 20 years ago. The rifle I was told when I bought it was built by Fred Sinclair.

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CB posted this 15 January 2008

The 6mmBR cartridge will be a little over-capacity for the bore. If you build a 6mm, I'd use the 6PPC cartridge. You can still get 6mm gas checks over on the Castboolits forum in group buys from Gatorchecks. Maybe Fred could put in a good word and make a deal with Gatorchecks to stock them at Sinclair International?  :)  That'd be great!

I think I know what Lyman mould you're talking about. It is a Loverin type design. I'd start out slow with something like AA5744 maybe 12-14gr at 1,600fps and see how it does. Then start cranking it up close to 2,000fps. I think a good powder choice may end up good with 4198 or VV N130?

Ya, I still have a PO Ackley barreled rifle and also nice Winchester with a Fred Sinclair barrel on it. Great prairie dog rifle in a 6mm-250!. Made a 520yd shot with it last spring..........Dan

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djohns posted this 16 January 2008

Thanks for the info Dan, I will try those loads and powders. I have a new 2lb container of N130 that I bought at a gunshow, I thought I was buying n133 and didn't notice I had the wrong powder until I got home.

I picked up the mould last night and it is a Lyman 245498, looks like it might be a good bullet to start with. He also had a new box of lyman 6mm gas checks, I was having trouble finding some.

I noticed in the tech data a lot of shooters are using 1 part lino to 1 part wheel weights. Is this the best way to go. I have plenty of lino and wheel weights. I also have lots of soft lead and a pretty good supply of tin but would like to save the soft lead and tin for my BPCR loads.

Also I have found that straight wall cases with cast lead bullets get better accuracy when I make an expander that is about .0005 under bullet diameter so that the bullets are not so hard to seat, will this work for these bottle neck cases also or do you recommend more neck tension.

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CB posted this 16 January 2008

DJ We generally run about .002 neck tension. Also I would plan on using an alloy that is in the 22 -26 bhn range. You will need the bullet strength to drive it 2000 fps or better. A general rule of thumb for cast bullets is the slower the twist, the shorter the bullet. it isnt as much the weight, but the length and bearing surface of the bullet for a given velocity that makes the difference.

Finding the velocity for a given length bullet will take experimentation, loading at the range will help you do that faster.

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djohns posted this 16 January 2008

Thanks jeff I will try your suggestions, you folks are sure a big help I really appreciate it.

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Fred Sinclair posted this 16 January 2008

Yep, tis me. About 6 years ago I built my rifle thinking I was going 1000 yard BR shooting. When I found out, that at some matches only the relay winners advance I had a change of heart. I'm sure as H---  not driving 250 plus miles only to shoot 5 or 10 rounds. That just wasn't gonna' work. The darn thing has less than 100 rounds thru it and is just sitting in the safe. I'm hoping you can figure out how to make your rifle work with cast so I can pick your brain. Fred 

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djohns posted this 16 January 2008

Fred

Will be glad to keep you posted. We have a real nice 1000 yard range down here at the AEDC military base. It is approx 50 miles from my house. I shot in about 10 different matches in the past 3 years. I started with the 6br cause I always was partial to it and a lot of the guys were have good suscess with it. I finally shot a 200 13X score with it. If it is real windy the 6.5 284 guys will kick your butt. I kind of lost interest after the 200 score but now they have made the 10 ring smaller and it is even harder to get a 200 score.

These matches are real informal down here and we usually shoot two 20 round matches and sometimes 3 20 round matches. I guess this is to far for you to drive but if you are ever interested just let me know. I would attend another match if you were there, it would be a pleasure to meet you.

 

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CB posted this 17 January 2008

dj,

You're a blessed man. Your friend's 245498 design is the best 6mm mould of the Lyman moulds. The Loverins are good for position match accuracy, but hardly ever seem to make it into the BR accuracy range. It is a bore-ride bullet, so after you cast some, push the nose of the cb into the muzzle of your rifle. It shouldn't fall in, but have just a little friction. Then try pushing it firmly into the throat with a bronze rod, knock it out and it should have land marks engrave on the nose. I inspect closely under a lighted magnifier, as fit is critical.

I assume you have a tight-neck chamber. The tight neck custom BR shooters like the 30BR don't size the neck usually, they load the bullet by hand just to the gas check. When closing the bolt, the bullet will bottom out in the throat and push back into the neck. If you have to resize though, Jeff is right about .002".

Don't alloy if you don't have to. That's just another factor to mess you up. If you have plenty of lino, just cast it. Lino cast great and can hardly be beat for ease of casting and shooting up to 2,200fps with synthetic lube. The guys using 50/50 Lino/WW are probably stretching their supply out and only shooting up to 1,800fps..............Dan

 

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djohns posted this 17 January 2008

Dan

I'm even more blessed to have met someone as helpful as you are on this forum. I have never got into forums before but sure glad I did this one.

 I have been full length resizing with a redding bushing die. The necks are turned but I'm only sizing a couple of thousands for the bullet to reseat. I have more brass and can neck some more so that I don't have to resize at all. I talked to the guy at LBT today Veral Smith and I'm gonna go ahead and order a 30 cal mould while he is still making them.

 He mentioned something about making a bump die to bump the bullets for a better fit in the throat. Is this what you are talking about when you say fit is critical. Is this die doing the same thing with each bullet as you describe with the brass rod, but you do it to all the bullets so they match the throat.

  He said you make the die with the same reamer you cut the chamber with. I don't have the reamer that cut the chamber in the 6br but I quess I could borrow it again if the guy still has it. Any light you could shed on this would be greatly appreciated. I'm always interested in new gadgets to make and experiment with.

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CB posted this 18 January 2008

If you are sizing your necks now, the cases will probably be alright for CBs. I was going to say remember you'll probably want to try sizing and lubing the CBa at .244", so you'll need to go up .001” or 2 in your bushing. The base of the bullet should be sized to the diameter in your long throat. Too big and it won't chamber, too small and it won't seal and lead the barrel.

The idea of bumping is to press the CB to the exact size of the throat. That is why you use the same chamber or throat reamer to make the die. Bumping usually involves 'bumping up' small parts of the bullet to the diameter of the reamer used. I do not use a bump die.

Your 107gr throat ought to take the LBT just fine. Be sure to size the base to the diameter of your throat. Seat the CB as far into the throat as possible. I suggested moderate loads to start because the pressures are forgiving to any ill-fitting of the CB. If you are not getting any leading problems and find decent accuracy, then load on up to 1,800-1,900fps with N130-N135 or 4895. Good luck and have fun!  :)................Dan

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djohns posted this 18 January 2008

Dan

Thanks again, I really appreciate all of this help. I read some of the other threads in the forum about this bumping thing and what you just told me confirms that my understanding is much better. You have been a great help.

There is a guy selling linotype on ebay and is listing it at 40.00 dollars for 40 lbs with flat rate shipping of 8.95. I have bought a couple of hundred more lbs from him in the last couple days. If anyone is interested I think he has some more listed. Just go to ebay and do a search for linotype and about 55 items will show up he is down at the bottom.

I hope to get a few bullets cast this weekend and see how they fit, but it is too cold here to shoot. Suspose to get down into the teens this weedend. I have range duty on saturday but will probably stay by the heater most of the time.

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CB posted this 18 January 2008

What do you mean too cold, we're having a registered match tomorrow at Wind Hill. Suppose to be down to -6F tonight with a high of 5F tomorrow and a wind chill of -11F!

Now days $1/lb ain't a bad price for Linotype. It's alway going to go up, for sure. Back in 1984-85 the Wind Hill bunch bought out a print shop at $.30/lb. I got 1,000lbs and sold have to a buddy. Altogether I think we got just over 12,000lbs out of there. Sure'd like to finda haul like that again!

This is good weather to stay inside and cast up next season's CBs. I cast Lino as hot as my electric pot will go, about 780F. I use a ladle cause it fills out the mould better, as those CBs are a little heavier than bottom poured CBs. Then get them to fit good in the throat, like a Chinese finger cuff. Full support from the nose to the opening of the throat. Most match shooters seat somewhere around or just at the gas check...............Dan

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djohns posted this 18 January 2008

Dan

Your last response reminded me of a joke. An old man was walking down the road and a frog jumped up beside him and said “kiss me and I will turn into a beautiful princess” The old man picked up the frog and put it in his pocket. The frog crawled up out of his pocket and said “hey old man did you not hear me, kiss me and I will turn into a beautiful princess” The old man pushed the frog back down into his pocket and said at my age I'd rather have a talking frog.

At my age I'd rather have a nice cozy warm place..Get it;)

There was a time though if it were below zero, snowing, sleeting, I'd be shooting or up in a tree waiting on a whitetail.:fire

 

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djohns posted this 20 January 2008

Dan

I cast some bullets with the lyman mould using linotype lead and the nose section is only .233 I need about .237 for them to ride the bore with a good snug fit. Can a swage or bump die be made to bump these up. I slugged the freebore section of the chamber and it measures .2435  The freebore section measures about .100 long and tapers into the rifling.

What would be better, it seems to me, is to have the nose section not a bore rider but large enough to fit this freebore and the nose to match the throat section. Is it possible to upset these linotype bullets that much with a swage die. I have a large corbin sytly press that I made a few years ago when I was experimenting with swaging 40 cal bullets for the 40-65, and it would not take too much work to make such a die. 

If you know for sure that this won't work let me know and I will cast some round slugs from the linotype and turn some test bullets on the cnc lathe to match the chamber and send one to a mold maker and have a mould made to match it.

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DonH posted this 21 January 2008

Unless one can make all these “bump dies", etc. himself it seems to me it would be more advantageous to have a mould cut to give the bullet fit you need right from the mould. If a mould has to accommodate more than one rifle, nothing beats a mould throwing a bullet of correct fit. The $120 or so (from B&D) for a custom mould is not so much compared to buying/trying sevaral moulds looking for something that works. For what it is worth, I am not flush with money and thought I could do it for less than the cost of a custom only to find that I would have been better off to have heeded advise of others.

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djohns posted this 21 January 2008

I can make the bump dies myself, do you think that I could bump this linotype up that much. I have had some experience with swaging 20-1 (lead to tin) but not with linotype, it is a lot harder and would take a lot more pressure.

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CB posted this 21 January 2008

dj,

I'm not sure making a bump die by cnc will get you the correct dimensions. I don't know much about machine work.  I do make a taper die using a chucking reamer. For the nose, say.237” for you, or .001” under, then run a throating reamer in to set the correct angle that matches my rifle's throat angle. You certainly know enough I think you could do it. Keep track of what you did so you could make the correct changes to the 2nd attempt.

Make your .2435” freebore area longer so your bullet runs up into the die. You'll need an adjustable nose punch/stop to knock it out and to adjust the bump. When bumping or tapering, seating depths are gauged from the base. Don't worry about where the nose of the bullet ends up in the throat, it'll be resting in the lands. If your freebore is .10” in length, add something like another .10"-.20” to seat the CB by the gas check with the rest of the CB bottoming out in the throat angle. In the end you'll get light land engraving on the nose, a smear on the angle and freebore. The smears are hard to see sometimes, I'll felt mark the CB when I press it into the throat to check fit. After you cut the die, you can polish out another .0005” which you will probably have to do. Be sure to get that freebore .2435” a tight fit, not a force fit. The base needs to seal instantly for clean foul-free shooting in competition, and you're only going to be .0005” over groove diameter......................Dan

OH, If you know cnc, you probably know who Roland Friestad is here in Galesburg. The guys is a genius!

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djohns posted this 21 January 2008

Dan

I wasn't talking about making the bump die on the cnc, sorry I wasn't clear on this. what I was talking about is if the linotype cannot be bumped up to these dimensions I could make some test bullets like I need on the cnc lathe. Use these to test with and if they work good send one off to a mould maker.

Do you think I can bump these linotype bullets up to .2435 in a bump die. What I would like to do is to bump the entire bore riding section up to this diameter and shape the nose to fit the throat.

 

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CB posted this 21 January 2008

With your big press you won't have any problem bumping up Lino from what I hear. If you want to make a groove ride bullet out of the Lyman bullet, it would probably work also, as I have made groove diameter lino bullets into bore-ride with a taper die.  You'll need the whole CB enclosed in the die so the rest of the CB isn't distorted. From what I understand, install the gas check and fill the grease grooves so they don't collapse under pressure..................Dan

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Paul Pollard posted this 21 January 2008

When Chad and I first started with our (light) production rifles, he shot a 6mm Remington. He used the RCBS 243 095. This cast about .245 on the base and .240 on the nose. He actually had to taper the bullet to get a better fit. Before tapering, about 1.5” groups. With tapering, .8-.9” groups without having to try too hard. He really started embarrassing me then! That mould seems to have good dimensions. The Eagan bullet was only .236 on the nose and was too small and inaccurate.

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djohns posted this 21 January 2008

Dan

Thanks for the info I will try and make a bump die to get the nose bigger. I will install the gaschecks and lube before trying to bump them. This is a very good looking bullet and if the nose section was just a few thousands larger I would not have to do anything. The long freebore and throat take up most of the first three bands but the gas check and part of another band will still be in the neck.

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djohns posted this 21 January 2008

Paul

Thanks for the info on the rcbs mould. If I can't get this lyman mould to shoot I may have to order one of these and give it a try. The lyman mould I have is casting a nose dia of .233 which is grossly undersized and I don't think they would shoot to good this size..

djohns

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CB posted this 21 January 2008

Paul, you lucked out there, my mould cast a .236” nose, undersize for my 4 barrels.

Its a good thing Paul is watching this post, he has done plenty of bumping and working with small calibers, probably more than any of the rest of the NT shooters. :dude:

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Idaho Sharpshooter posted this 28 January 2008

Is a DD-ring the answer?

Rich

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CB posted this 28 January 2008

Rich,

I've never shot anything with a DD ring, and I haven't seen any of the competitors using it. I embossed a cannelure on the those of under size CBs to improve fit, but they were not consistent in a group (fliers) or from match to match (didn't work at all the next time out).  The small section of the nose where the DD ring makes contact isn't really enough support for me....................Dan 

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linoww posted this 28 January 2008

Hey 24 cal guys...

I have  an Eagan nose pour MX2-24 (two diameter style) I dont really need!!.In lino it's nose is just over .236 if I can remember correctly.It is avalable as a “trade only" towards another mold of similar quality in 30 ,35 or 22.

 

George

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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djohns posted this 31 January 2008

I really don't have any molds to trade, but might be interested in buying it. What weight bullet does it cast.

I have a 35 whelen and I'm looking for a 35 mold myself.

Danny

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linoww posted this 01 February 2008

djohns wrote: I really don't have any molds to trade, but might be interested in buying it. What weight bullet does it cast.

I have a 35 whelen and I'm looking for a 35 mold myself.

Danny It casts about 80 grains in linotype.I paid $70 for it,but probably wont shoot cast in 6mm's as my 22's are doing fine right now.Here is An Eagan drawing of the bullet.

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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djohns posted this 03 February 2008

That looks like it would be a good bullet. I just got a new mould from Huntington dies an rcbs 95 grain and I just cast some and the nose section is around .239. I can make a size die to size it down until it is a perfect fit. If this doesn't work out I might be interested in purchasing this mold from you. I will keep you posted but do not hold the mold for me. If you get a chance to trade or sell it I will understand.

I have also ordered a new throating reamer from dave kiff at precision pacific for my 30 br robinett chamber reamer. I have two good 30 caliber molds a lyman 311299 and a saeco 315. I ordered the throater with a 1 deg included angle for the lead bullets. So I may just go ahead and rebarrel to 30br, and forget about the 6br unless this new rcbs bullet works good.

Thanks for your help and input.

Danny Johns

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CB posted this 03 February 2008

Danny,

Hey you lucked out on the RCBS mould. My new one only cast .235 with Lino. It's a lot easier to size it down to fit than bump up. The nose should engrave lightly so it doesn't push the bullet back into the neck when loaded, with .002” neck tension. Good luck.......................Dan

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djohns posted this 10 February 2008

Dan

I got to go shoot the 6br this morning. It shot really great but I still have lots of work to do.

I ordered a new mould from huntinton dies a rcbs two cavity that cast a 95 grain bullet. The nose cast .239 and the bullet weights 89 grains cast with linotype. I sized the bullets .244 in the lyman lubersizer and they measured .2435 which was just what I needed to fit the freebore of this rifle. I then made a die to size the nose down to .237 which is what I needed for a snug fit into the rifling. I was able to borrow the reamer that cut the chamber in this rifle and used the throating section of this reamer to ream the taper into the end of the nose size die.

I installed the gas checks and lubed the first lube ring with rooster red and left the other lube ring with no lube. I made an expander mandrel that would open up the neck to where I had .002 neck tension and then stepped the mandrel up to just over bullet diameter so that the gas check section of the bullet would just slip in by hand and then seated the bullet to just above the first lube ring. When I chamber the round I can feel it push the bullet a little further into the neck.

I started out with the load you recommended to start with 14 grains of 5744, I did not set up the chronograph cause I'm fairly sure I will have to shoot faster than this. I shot two groups at 50 yards, the reason I shot at 50 was,I didn't have much time,had to get back for church, it was a little windy, and I had just put a new weaver 36 scope on the rifle and needed to bore sight it and get it on target. After getting it on target I shot two 3 shot groups at 50 yards. Both groups where under 1/4 inch, and if I had just shot all 6 shots on one target it might have been .300 at the most. I know 50 yards is not good enough but it makes me feel the rifle has potential.

The bullets I was using was some that I had cast with the mould when I first got it and was breaking it in. They weighted from 88.1 to 90.3 grains. I have cast about 100 more bullets and weighted them and all but about 6 of them weighted from 88.6 to 88.8 grains. The two cavities of the mould cast the same exact bullet, I was not expecting this, figured I would have to cast all bullets from the same cavity to get good consistancy in weight.

 

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djohns posted this 10 February 2008

Fred

I finally got around to shooting the 6br 1000 yard rifle with cast bullets today. I think the 6br set up for 1000 yards is going to be a real good cast bullet shooter. I don't think you could design a cartridge any better for cast bullets. You need the freebore so you can size the bullet to this and it gives a better lineup of the bullet to the bore.

I bought the rcbs 95 grain mould fron huntington dies and it is perfect. The nose cast .239 and all you have to do is to make a size die to take it down to where it will just fit or barely ingrave the rifling. I cast my bullets out of linotype and used rooster red lube. The bullets cast 88.6 to 88.8 grains from the mould. The freebore of my rifle measured .2435 so I sized my bullets about .0002 under this. The ones I sized .2435 where to tight a fit so I had to make a lee style sizer to push the bullets through to get them at .24325.

The first targets I shot with these were at 50 yards and the groups were under or around 1/4 inch. I should get a chance next weekend to crank up the loads and set up the chronograph and shoot some at 100 yards for a better test. I think the secret to making these shoot is like Dan has told us to fit the bullets to the freebore and the nose section to the bore, and making a bump die with the reamer throat section so you can make the bullet fit the angle of the throat so that the bullet seals from the start and you don't get any gas cutting by the bullet. I really didn't understand all of mechanics of this at first but it makes sense now.

Will keep you posted, let me know how you are coming with your project and if I can be of any help, if you need any kind help with making any of the special dies just let me know.

Danny

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CB posted this 10 February 2008

Danny,

It sounds like you really have a good handle on the CB, sizing it and getting it to fit the throat good. I'd go ahead and try the N130 or N133. I'd think H4895 ought to work good also. Try to get up to 2,000-2,200fps if you're not getting any leading. That is about as fast as Lino can handle. You'll need the velocity for good BC for 200yds if you shoot CBA matches, but take accuracy over velocity. Have fun and good luck, it looks like you're on your way.:D ................Dan

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djohns posted this 10 February 2008

Thanks for all the help and Dan I really appreciate it.

Danny

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djohns posted this 18 February 2008

Jeff

I have conculded my experiment with the 6br 1000 yard rifle for shooting cast bullets. The results were amazing. This rifle will shoot cast bullets and does it very well. If there are others like Fred that have a 1000 yard rifle in 6br here is a rundown on what I did.

The rifle:

 It is a standard remington 700 that has been blueprinted and the bolt raceway has been reamed and the bolt has been sleeved so that there is very little play. The original extractor has been replaced with a sako extractor. The stock is an H S Precision with the aluminum bedding block. The forearm of the stock has been fitted with a 3 inch wide 1/4 inch thick aluminum plate that extends to just in front of the trigger guard so that it has a 3 inch wide forearm to ride the bages. The barrel is a douglas 1 in 8 twist 30 inches long and is fairly heavy. The rifle is chambered in 6br with a .100 freebore and a 1 1/2 included angle throat. This rifles best score at 1000 yards using 107 grain sierra match king bullets with 30.5 grains of varget was a 200 x 13X.

Cast bullet used was a RCBS 95 grain bullet. The ones I cast only weighted from 88 to 89 grains cast from linotype. I followed Dan's instructions and made a bump die to size the nose of the bullet to a snug fit into the rifling and reamed the angle on the first driving band with the reamer that cut the chamber of the rifle. I made an expander die to expand the necks of the case to where I had .002 neck tension and made a step in it to just over bullet dia. so the bullets would just start by hand. I started out with 14 grains of 5744 shooting at 50 yards and the group was good but not exceptional. I went to 16 grains of 5744 and moved the target out to 100 yards and set up the chronograph. The bullets were going 2000fps and I had about a 3/4 inch group. I next tried 17 grains of 5744 and the velocity went to 2200fps and the groups were whow. I only had enough bullets to shoot a couple of groups but both groups were 1/4 inch or just a hair over.

I was amazed that cast bullets would shoot this good. I have shot a lot of cast bullets from hunting guns before but have not had this kind of accuracy. I'm almost temped to shot this rifle in the next regular benchrest for score match. This is awesome a rifle that will shoot jacketed bullets at 1000 yards and shoot cast bullet benchrest.

The new rifle that Jeff told us about from Savage in 6br set up for the Tactical guys should do the same thing. What these 1000 yard rifles have is a chamber with some freebore for long bullets with a high BC, and it is this feature that makes them a good candidate for the cast bullets. I suspose that other calibers in the 1000 yard arsenal could be used that same way.

Thanks everyone for all the good advice and help..

Danny

 

 

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CB posted this 18 February 2008

Wow! That is really great Danny. .250 group aint nothing to sneeze at. Now all ya gotta do is weight that thing and figger out if you gotta shoot in Heavy or Unrestricted class and find ya a match to shoot in.

If ya shoot that at a regular BR match and let on that you were shooting cast bullets, you might have a problem finding lead around your neck of the woods..

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CB posted this 18 February 2008

Hey, great!  :)  Glad it worked out for ya...............Dan

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CB posted this 09 August 2009

dJ

I also have a desire to try a 6 BRS but I only have a barrel for my Rail Gun. Lots of brass made off 7 BR cases. The good part it is not one of my front line barrels soooooooo I will screw it on my Wichita action. Fred Sinclair of HOF status who must like Cast to get in this bunch smithed this barreled action for Eric Miller. I started BR in the 70's everybody knows Fred in the BR game. I also bought my Culver/Nagy thrower out the back of his truck at Kelbly's in 1977 if I remember right $75.

I have 245496 now also would try RCBS 243-095-SP. I got my RCBS handles last week. I approach cast as a hobby. What I can get out of it is a bonus for what I do in jacketed BR also gives me a chance to use some powders that I currently don't use for jacketed. Good luck jP review the basics.

Stephen Perry

Angeles BR:fire

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tturner53 posted this 09 August 2009

Stephen, you have a sickness. It is in the early stages, but I recognize the symptoms. When you shoot those handmade 6mm bullets you will be a full blown cast bullet addict and the “hobby” stuff will go out the window. Eventually you'll lose all interest in jacketed bullets and then you start missing work....

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CB posted this 09 August 2009

Stephen Perry wrote: Fred Sinclair of HOF status who must like Cast to get in this bunch  

Worse bunches he could have gotten into I imagine.

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CB posted this 10 August 2009

Pat

I have talked to Fred Sinclair several times since I met him in 1977. Seems to me he was shootin Cast since then. His workers say there isn't too much in the shootin World that Fred hadn't tried. Amazing guy.

Stephen Perry

Angeles BR:fire

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