Removal of surface rust from color case hardened receiver - best method?

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  • Last Post 20 September 2016
TheMrNotSoFamous posted this 30 June 2016

I apparently missed wiping an area near trigger guard with oily rag last time I was done shooting (it was hot and I was sweating pretty good) . As a result, I got a spot of surface rust that's not easy to remove. The spot is about the size of a thumbnail. What are the best methods to use without damaging color case hardening? Thanks a bunch.

Owning a firearm doesn't make you armed anymore than owning a guitar makes you a musician...words of Jeff Cooper

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corerf posted this 30 June 2016

0000 steel wool and Eds Red.

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358156hp posted this 30 June 2016

Real color case, or is it a modern gun with the fake type? Both are pretty fragile.

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.22-10-45 posted this 30 June 2016

That case-colring is only a few millionths of an inch thick..really just heat coloring..anything that's going to remove the rust spot will leave a bright steel bare spot on the case-color finish. I have used cold blue on Q tip to blend worn case-colors back to closely match.

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Pentz posted this 01 July 2016

Hoppes, gently applied with a soft cloth, then ballistol or other good oil such as mobile 1. Nothing abrasive.

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onondaga posted this 01 July 2016

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=9661>TheMrNotSoFamous

Don't be tempted to shell blast with walnut. You'd think it would be gentile, but it will blow the color right off.

Gary

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TheMrNotSoFamous posted this 01 July 2016

Thank you all for your answers. I'll try them to see how well it works out.

Owning a firearm doesn't make you armed anymore than owning a guitar makes you a musician...words of Jeff Cooper

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TheMrNotSoFamous posted this 01 July 2016

TO 358156HP, it's real case color hardening. TO .22-10-45, good idea, just might use a little if needed. TO Onondaga, I'll try to hold temptation at bay no matter what happens.

Owning a firearm doesn't make you armed anymore than owning a guitar makes you a musician...words of Jeff Cooper

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M3 Mitch posted this 16 September 2016

Bumping the thread - what did you try, did anything work?

I don't know if it will work in this situation, but in general Kroil seems to break up rust pretty aggressively, but not bother the unrusted metal. I'd try it in a hidden corner and gingerly at first, I don't know that it won't attack the case hardening.

Given that the case hardening is so thin, I'm thinking the only way to get rid of the rust is to use something that will take the case hardening with it, then re-do the case hardening.

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TheMrNotSoFamous posted this 17 September 2016

I ended up using wd-40 to remove the surface rust with a little piece of leather I cut from an old belt. I used the rough side of the leather with light to moderate pressure and it removed most all the surface rust. Touched up with cold blue to try to blend in. It turned out good but not great. I can live with it, especially when I've been shootin' the rifle like it was stolen or something. I bought it to shoot but it's still a little disappointing to have it happen at all because I try to take good care of all my firearms. I just missed wiping that little spot with an oily rag, won't happen again.

Owning a firearm doesn't make you armed anymore than owning a guitar makes you a musician...words of Jeff Cooper

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delmarskid1 posted this 20 September 2016

TheMrNotSoFamous wrote: I ended up using wd-40 to remove the surface rust with a little piece of leather I cut from an old belt. I used the rough side of the leather with light to moderate pressure and it removed most all the surface rust. Touched up with cold blue to try to blend in. It turned out good but not great. I can live with it, especially when I've been shootin' the rifle like it was stolen or something. I bought it to shoot but it's still a little disappointing to have it happen at all because I try to take good care of all my firearms. I just missed wiping that little spot with an oily rag, won't happen again.I have a gunsmith friend who does a lot of bluing and finishing. He told me once that he has touched up color case hardening. He used peroxide and a bottle propane torch. I have not tried this so I can not vouch for his success. If I remember correctly Tom told me that he dabbed the area with peroxide and a cotton ball or Q-tip and then rolled the point of the flame over the area until  color showed. I would obviously practice on wrenches or bolts before I took a torch to the receiver of a gun. I doubt that the colors would wear well but what the heck?

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TheMrNotSoFamous posted this 20 September 2016

Thanks for the info. That's interesting.

Owning a firearm doesn't make you armed anymore than owning a guitar makes you a musician...words of Jeff Cooper

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