Some molds like the alloy hot but take a long time to cool down, slowing the process. Lowering the thermostat affects bullet quality. So, I keep the alloy hot and cool the bottom (or sprue plate) of the mold, a little bit, on a wet sponge set in a saucer of water. This helps me cast good bullets fast. But, water in the casting area is a danger. Just a drop of water in molten alloy makes an impressive explosion. A safe way to cool the mold between pours is to cool the mold bottom on an aluminum plate or muffin pan. Dick Howes, one of the better offhand shooters at the Old Colony Sportsman's Association, was able to cast bullets fast by having a sponge in a shallow dish of water in the casting area, and pouring-cooling the base of the mold on the wet sponge-removing the bullet-pouring-cooling... He said that the problem in casting fast is keeping the mold cool so that the bullet hardens quickly. (Ken Mollohan's Note: I have had good success using a damp cloth (actually, a clean but discarded bath towel) to rest gang molds on. The cooling is effective, the working area is generous, and there is no liquid water readily available to be a hazard. The damp towel approach also does a decent job of cooling the heavier bullets enough for handling in a reasonable length of time. It also has the advantage of provide the fast, cheap cooling of water without the hazard of explosions from liquid water: when it begins to dry out, just stop long enough to re-wet it at the sink and wring it out before resuming casting.) A. C. Gould, in “THE MODERN AMERICAN RIFLE”, recommends cooling the bottom of the mold in a dish of water between pours. He talks about a person who could cast 12 perfect .45 caliber bullets in a minute, 505 in an hour. This is 30 pounds of 500-grain bullets. I wonder, could A. C. have told a fib? Maybe not. Several shooters on the Internet cast bullet forums report cooling the sprue plate on a wet sponge or rag to cool the mold, and casting lots of bullets quick. Bruce Bannister, on the “Cast Boolits” forum reports: “In one timed run at my normal rate with a SINGLE-cavity Lee .30 mould, I made 159 good bullets in thirty minutes. This translates to over three hundred per hour from a one-banger mould. It's not unusual to get well over 500 good 'uns in an hour from my Lyman or RCBS two-cav jobs, and 400 'bph' is easy. Lyman four-cavity moulds can give me over 1000 per hour on a good day. Casting heavier bullets takes a bit longer due to longer mould-filling-time than is required by lighter boolits."
COOLING THE MOLD
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Well, I got those 4 & 5 cavity molds from N.O.E. and Accurate.
But I'm down to one pot and that's all I can handle, about 15-18lbs. 2 of the 4-5 cavity (see above) molds, or 2 of the Lee 6cav.
Haven't been able to cast since June, between the heat and infirmities.
As much as I can shoot these days, I got enough bullets to last a good while. Those Accurate, N.O.E & Lee multi-cavity molds cast a lot of good bullets in no time at all.
Technique and Rythem are everything.
Long time Caster/Reloader, Getting back into it after almost 10yrs. Life Member NRA 40+yrs, Life S.A.S.S. #375. Does this mean a description of me as a fumble-fingered knuckle-draggin' baboon. I also drool in my sleep. I firmly believe that true happiness is a warm gun. Did I mention how much I HATE auto-correct on this blasted tablet.
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WOW
Time does fly. Went out to fire up everything this morning and nothing seemed out of sorts at all. In the usual twenty minutes or so, thermometer showed mould blocks ready at 395*F, heat sink at 72*f and ???casting pot at 68*F???. Upon close observation, and turning the radio down, the tell tale humming of a burnt out heating element. DARN!! Insulating the Lee pot had extended the life of the element to the point of complete complacency. Eleven and a half years on the same element is almost three times my past average. Oh well, the project for today has been changed.
Just for the benefit of those whom will appreciate it, I will expound on a tip offered earlier in a rather abstract way. In projectile casting, weight can be fluctuated simply by manipulating casting temperatures at various points. With the exception of single cavity moulds, alternating fill direction on each cycle, will narrow weight inconsistencies. The more cavities involved, the greater need for alternating becomes. Failure to alternate will cause one end to become hotter through dwell. Again, for those whom will appreciate it.
Roy
Shoot often, Shoot well
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I've never used a NOE thermometer as I don't yet have a NOE mold. But I have stuck a dial type casting thermometer in a mold cavity as a mold was preheating on the hot plate. I turn up the hot plate until the mold "temp" reaches about 300+ degrees. Then I start casting. That hot plate can be tricky to use, turn it all the way up & it'll melt a sprue left on the cast iron diffuser plate I use with it.
I also use a "nail" fan for sprue cooling. I just set the molds down on a wood bIocker in front of the fan. I cast from 2-3 2cav molds from the same brand, or 1-2 4cav molds. I use a bunch of the old LYMAN/Loverin 1cav molds for rifle shooting. I have to cast HOT & FAST to get good bullets from them. I also find mixing molds from different makers throws off my casting rhythm. However I'm learning to like the 6cav LEE molds. I'm saving my pennies to get a new 4+ cav mold from one of the new mold makers, maybe NOE or ACCURATE.
Long time Caster/Reloader, Getting back into it after almost 10yrs. Life Member NRA 40+yrs, Life S.A.S.S. #375. Does this mean a description of me as a fumble-fingered knuckle-draggin' baboon. I also drool in my sleep. I firmly believe that true happiness is a warm gun. Did I mention how much I HATE auto-correct on this blasted tablet.
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Two things have improved the quantity and quality of my cast bullets in the last 10 years. A hot plate for pre-heating and a small fan, for cooling. I use both a hi-speed squirrel cage fan, ala the Master Caster and a manicure fan as recommended by Mike Venturino. Duke
those are my methods also and work very well
Elmo
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I guess there are just about as many casting methods as there are Bullet Casters.
I clamp 2 20lb bottom pour pots at either end of a picnic table. as soon as 1 gets down to 1/4 full, I refill it and switch to the pot at the other end. I stack 15 1lb ingots on the back of each pot and use the warmed ingots to refill the partially emptied pot. I keep a hot plate in the middle of the table with a cast iron diffuser plate to rest the molds in use on. I try to keep it at 350+degrees. I also keep a fingernail fan at each end too. It takes less than 5 min. to accomplish the change from one end of the table to the other. Even though I'm outside on a covered patio I keep an oscillating fan on high. I get 700 -900 an hour this way. But now I'm getting too 'advanced in years' to maintain the all day pace.
I cast from 3 2cav molds, or 2 4cav molds. Or even 4 1cav molds. I always use the same brand of molds and close in caliber/ weight as practical. I use the “back to front", “front to back” method when using 4cav molds too.
I use a counting/deep breathing method of cooling. I open the mold, drop the bullets and take and let out one or two deep breaths before I close & refill the mold cavities. This sounds weird but it works for me.
Long time Caster/Reloader, Getting back into it after almost 10yrs. Life Member NRA 40+yrs, Life S.A.S.S. #375. Does this mean a description of me as a fumble-fingered knuckle-draggin' baboon. I also drool in my sleep. I firmly believe that true happiness is a warm gun. Did I mention how much I HATE auto-correct on this blasted tablet.
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Does anyone use the late Bruce Bannister's (BruceB) speed casting method? Here's a link: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?57105-BruceB-s-Speed-Casting-Method
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OU812, that's interesting because I have found that a mold temp of 400-430 degrees is where my NOE molds cast the best and most consistent bullets. Most recently a three cavity NOE 22460. RN.
As this is my first 22 mold, I'm still getting the hang of casting those little bullets.But when my pouring is right and cadence consistent, the weight variation runs between .1-.3 grain for the vast majority.
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The NOE digital thermometer is good learning tool, especially when pre heating mold before casting. It also tells you if you are casting too slow of too fast. You must find the perfect temp and stay around it. My mold temps have reached lower 400 degrees to get good filled out bullets, but most every mold is different.
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I have a 20 lb Waage pot and have ladle poured for quite a number of years . And for most of my molds except for the steel nose pour blocks, usually run the pot temp between 700-750 degrees. I set the mold blocks on the top rim of the pot to preheat. Over time, I have worked out my own procedure and routine for casting that works for me depending on what mold I'm using at the time. Just as everyone else does
However. last summer I bought an NOE digital mold block thermometer that uses a probe connected to a digital readout. This probe is inserted into a hole that is drilled into one side of the bullet mold causing the temp of the blocks to be continually displayed on the readout.
It took some getting used to but once we got acquainted, I'm beginning to like this gizmo more all the tiime. First, there is no guessing as to when the cold mold is up to the proper temperature and then casting untill I get good bullets. With some use at the beginning, this is determined by casting to find the temperature range that the mold needs to be.. Then, that temp. is maintained on the digital readout by controlling the cycles. No guessing about when the mold is hot enough to start or maintaining the right temp. when casting.
Right now, anyway, cooling the mold is less of a problem than it was before because I can control the mold temp as I cast. No doubt , when summer arrives once again I'. have to adjust my routine some what. ..
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Having one bad elbow and two bad hands, I'm pretty much limited to single cavity iron moulds and double cavity aluminum moulds. So Since I ladle pour, I try to do maybe a single iron 45 caliber pistol bullet and double cavity 32 pistol bullet. When everything is up to temperature, it is normal to get 4 good castings every minute. The mould “resting” is on an aluminum one inch plate in the spring and fall, but on the Formica counter top in the winter so it doesn't get too cold.
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I am coming late to the party here, but LOVE the discussion.
Over the years I have tried all of these methods, and these days if using a single gang mold I use a small box fan on the casting bench and rest the blocks directly on the enameled metal table top and try to pace myself to maintain a consistent casting temperature.
But the great majority of the time I alternate between two molds, of distinctly different shapes which are easily separated, and work up a pace which keeps them both going. That is my preferred method.
73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia
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I some times run two alternating molds that helps to slow the process and cool the molds between casts. It can be difficult if the molds are substantially different sizes but with practice it can be done.
Because I said so!
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.... love it ! ...
i think i will try that air-cooling technique ...
ken
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Hey guys
Well it has been over four years and +100k castings since insulating my little Lee 10# pot. The heating element would have burnt out at least once in factory issue. Still going strong but past experience has me listening for the tell tale hum. Nothing yet.
My cooling system has now proved itself through empirical substance. Stable and consistent empty mould temp is but a single constituent to high quality casting. Removing heat from a casting is not just a good idea, it is mandatory. The best path would be low velocity free fall, not possible with current technology. Next is to create a convective flow path for the heat exit. Ambient air will adulterate, the rate will be subject to the ambient temp. For some, casting is a therapeutic experience and air cooling is part of the perflaxation sought. If expediency is an attractive option, the aforementioned practices will improve production. Any inconsistent routines will introduce inconsistencies into the finished product. (" if you have the patience to use a modicum of understanding temperature flow in casting cadence and have the modern man intellect to ponder thermodynamics in casting to the degree that allows you to see logical simple answers are the best answers"). This attitude would also limit us to walking as the best answer to transportation issues. Producing projectiles which challenge the skill and abilities of man and machine require a little advanced thinking. That is how we got modern smokless propellants. Doing this at a higher rate of quality and production is the reward for those who wish it. My projectiles produce gold medals at state level competitions, for myself and others.
Recently a shooting competitor struggling with some inconsistencies in his cast weights came to me for a diagnostic appointment. He is part of a group of respected shooters who are experienced bullet casters. There were two fellows involved in the conundrum. Good looking castings with wide variations in weight. Checking the moulds showed nothing obvious. So what the hell? I fired up my rig and sipped some casting juice while waiting for temp. With everything warmed up I dropped the first four cavities, set the block onto the heat sink for 5 count, then broke the sprue and out they came. What I assumed was common knowledge, seemed to not be the case. Both were taken aback when on the next pour I cast in the opposite direction. There was nothing else to explain. I thought everybody knew this!
Gary, as to your challenge, I got gold in Florida State NRA hunter pistol, Big Bore Iron sights 2004, 2005, 2006 and moved on to more challenging competition. DA.
Roy
Shoot often, Shoot well
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I keep a 5 gallon bucket of water next to my casting set up and dunk full mold into the water to cool if necessary. Steve
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I've often taken to just using the 2-mold technique that lots of folks do--run two alternately, cooling one by simply setting on either the burner base (which is below my burner but gets an lot of heat radiating off the pot), on up on the edge of the pot (which for me is a Dutch oven with two ears (for the bail) where the mold can safely sit).
Other than that, I simply slow down--setting mold on the pot and moving my attention over to the sizer/luber for a couple of minutes.
I also have an advantage in casting right at the garage door in Colorado--just crack open the door by 4” and in almost any season I have a continuous stream of cooling air coming in through that space. I swing the mold in my left hand a few times past that opening and there I am.
These techniques work for me, even though they're not real sophisticated. I really do hate having my cadence slowed down, but sometimes I accept that.
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Hey VMWilson
What a tidy casting area! Very nice. I think I could learn some things watching you in the zone. Saayy, what are those jobber-jews with the handles? One on each side of the mould rest. Pot lids?
Roy Pot lids they are. They do or should I say did work OK getting up to temperature. But I've never gotten around to modifying them a bit since I added holders for the thermocouples.
Mike
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Hey VMWilson
What a tidy casting area! Very nice. I think I could learn some things watching you in the zone. Saayy, what are those jobber-jews with the handles? One on each side of the mould rest. Pot lids?
Roy
Shoot often, Shoot well
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Lots of different approaches to casting. Mine is a fan which is switch controlled and I gauge it's use on the “feel” of cutting the sprue. Both pots are now PID controlled and that's one less thing to fuss with. Warming shelves on the pots have worked well for me without feeling the need for a hot plate. Figure I might as well use the heat that's already there and they get up around 300° F. First bullets are generally good.
Mike
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Thsnks for the details, and that's good to know about the Lee pot...I hear mine humming quite a bit lately, and I'll definitely give this a try once the element finally goes.
Prior to a bottom-pour pot I'd exclusively used the Palmer hand-held ones, which hold around 3 pounds, until the day when a leg on the chair I was sitting in gave way as I was in mid-pour with the pot full...Somehow nothing spilled, and I think God just shook His head, smiled and said, 'You're welcome'. That was only 2 years ago, so bottom-pour it is for me, and I like the added advantages. Thanks again.
Greg
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